Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Storm and Bret Ruckman ?
Page Views: 4,289 total · 31/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Jun 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Great Route. Slightly Overhanging big finger crack at the start. (not as intimidating as that usually sounds) Move up and left at the top of this crack to exit out around the corner.
Just above is a horizontal crack. Traverse left in it for 10 feet or so and then pull the big-hands to fist to offwidth exit. Excellent!

Location

Up the Green A Gully. Just up from Looney Tunes/Mother of Pearl. This route is located on the opposite side of the gully from Loony Tunes.

Descent: From the offwidth section... move left on slabby rock to a 2 bolt rap anchor in some brush. A single rope will get you to the ground.

Protection

I believe that I took...
3-4 0.5 Camalots for the start
varied gear for the traverse (stoppers and assortment of small cams. 0.4 - 1 camalot)
a #3 and a #4 camalot come in handy for the exit.

There is one bolt on the route at the stemming move from the finger crack to the horizontal crack.
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This is a really interesting and fun route! Go do it. Bring some .75 BD cams/ red metolius for the start as well. Also a #1 BD protects the hand travere really well. Sep 8, 2008
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
 
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
 
Climbed this route on 09-06 and couldn't find the anchors and did the walk off LOL. Did a sketchy traverse under a huge boulder and downclimbed to the wheels on fire belay ledge. Didn't get it clean but know what to do now, next time I will look a little harder for the anchors. Really cool route, lots of different styles of moves, cant wait to give it another go! Sep 8, 2009
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
I found the OW to be the crux; probably because I hate OW's. Sep 23, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Seems imperative that one would mention this route is located in a huge cave. Climb up stacked blocks into the cave to see the finger crack on the west wall. The bolt seems like a good idea, but by the time you can clip it you are in the clear so I'm not sure why its there. Fun climbing. Don't leave the ground without your #4 camalot or you will be sorry as you thrutch up the final 10 feet onto the slab. Brand new anchors on slab left of crack allow for easy descent. I believe they were placed due to the ridiculously difficult looking bolted/fixed copperhead route left of stormy. Regardless, easy descent. May 19, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11b
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11b
This climb has a little of everything! Found the aforementioned gear to be right on.

The Ruckman guidebook only gives this 1 of out 3 stars, but the MP consensus 3 out of 4 is definitely more on target. Get on it! May 3, 2014
Ryan Arnold
  5.11b
Ryan Arnold  
  5.11b
Fun stuff. If you're worried about the overhanging crack bring some extra .75, seems to be the ticket size. Holds are really positive incuts so it's easier than it looks. Probably three cruxes: getting out of the crack past the bolt, the traverse after the rest, and then maneuvering the 3 to 4 camalot sized crack. I didn't use my 4 because I wanted that spot for my calf! May 21, 2017