Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ruckman
Page Views: 11,343 total · 70/month
Shared By: Erik S. Gillis on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


128 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Awewsome route!!! It is located just to the left of where touch up and Gordon's Hangover starts. Some people start in the actual corner of Gordons and others start on the face. I did it starting on the face and thought it is much more classic that way. The Landing is good if you blow before the first bolt and the moves are really cool. After the third bolt is clipped it eases up a lot, although it still can be pumpy(or it least it was for me), at the top. For only a 60ft route it gets some good exposure. All in all well worth the hike! Good luck!

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. (Same as Touch Up.)
ASENDR
  5.12a
ASENDR  
  5.12a
About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a. Jan 8, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12a
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12a
face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz Jan 25, 2006
sgreen Verde
salt lake city, ut
sgreen Verde   salt lake city, ut
pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in. Jun 6, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.12a
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.12a
Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d! Sep 27, 2007
WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
 
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
 
Beautiful line! Well worth the hike up. Aug 6, 2008
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
My first 5.12! Don't cheat yourself, start on the face and avoid the corner;it is way cooler. The sequence is stellar and is well protected. Beautiful vertical face, Granite, wonderful location...it does not get much better. Mar 19, 2009
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
It gets a lot better. Apr 10, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of (bad) holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches.
Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away! Oct 26, 2009
Jack Daniels
SANDY, UTAH
Jack Daniels   SANDY, UTAH
I have been spotting this route out this season. Looks like a great route! Jul 5, 2012
Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
While on it today, I noticed the hanger was almost pulled off the second bolt. I tightened the screw back down with my fingers, but it didn't give me much confidence... especially since the crux is at and just above that bolt. Aug 18, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold. Mar 8, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I find this incredibly stiff for 12a, though I prefer the steep and juggy over the thin and technical. But compared to the other popular 12a sport route in LCc "cool your Jets" this feels like 12c. One day I'll send it... May 30, 2015
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
No more manky spinners! All lead bolts have been replaced by the SLCA. Sep 25, 2017
Justin Fisher
Salt Lake City, UT
Justin Fisher   Salt Lake City, UT
You can lead and TR this route with a 40m rope, which makes the hike up a little more pleasant. Sep 10, 2018
Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.12a
Steve Miller   West Jordan
  5.12a
A 3 star route that gains another star once you send because you don't have to get on it again.
Slabby beta intensive crimp-fest on delicate feet up to the 3rd bolt (12.a) then eases up considerably to 11.a/b above.
The thing that made this classic for me is it isn't my style. If you love thin, crimpy, slabby (greasy at times) climbing this may be your next proj! Oct 28, 2018