Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kennan Harvey and Jonathan Knight, 1997?
Page Views: 6,420 total · 41/month
Shared By: jonathan knight on Aug 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start up a ramp then switch left to a jagged, chossy weakness that leads to a ledge 30 feet above. A bolt protected boulder problem off the right side of the ledge accessing the bottom of a right facing corner that quickly turns into an steep, underclinging, flake traverse. From the dead end of the flake, switch to the flake above and continue to traverse to the point where the undercling offsets to a small ledge. A bolt protected bulge looms above followed by another that finishes on a good size foot ledge. It could end here but noooo. Off the left end of the ledge, traverse past a bolt to gain the huecos in the bottom of a right facing corner that is shared with the Nostrum. At the top of the corner, the Nostrum goes right and Beastie Boys ends left with a mantel.

Location

This route starts from a scrubby little alcove on top of about a 150 feet of diagonal scambling on the west wall of the Green A. Same as for the Butterfield Route, but head right up the ramp/corner to begin.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 fixed nuts, about 10 other pieces are needed so bring doubles from 1/2" to 2". Long slings are necessary. 2 bolt anchor with the dreaded rap hangers.

Photos