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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kennan Harvey and Jonathan Knight, 1997?
Page Views: 5,756 total, 42/month
Shared By: jonathan knight on Aug 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start up a ramp then switch left to a jagged, chossy weakness that leads to a ledge 30 feet above. A bolt protected boulder problem off the right side of the ledge accessing the bottom of a right facing corner that quickly turns into an steep, underclinging, flake traverse. From the dead end of the flake, switch to the flake above and continue to traverse to the point where the undercling offsets to a small ledge. A bolt protected bulge looms above followed by another that finishes on a good size foot ledge. It could end here but noooo. Off the left end of the ledge, traverse past a bolt to gain the huecos in the bottom of a right facing corner that is shared with the Nostrum. At the top of the corner, the Nostrum goes right and Beastie Boys ends left with a mantel.

Location

This route starts from a scrubby little alcove on top of about a 150 feet of diagonal scambling on the west wall of the Green A. Same as for the Butterfield Route, but head right up the ramp/corner to begin.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 fixed nuts, about 10 other pieces are needed so bring doubles from 1/2" to 2". Long slings are necessary. 2 bolt anchor with the dreaded rap hangers.

Photos

FANTASTIC FILM!! Go Shingo!! Way to push the commitment meter up into the stratosphere Peter. Climbing is deeply personal, and Peter's humility is obvious. He has chosen to do routes in a specific style, but he makes no claim about how his was a better ascent, nor does he return to the route and remove the bolts simply because he was able to send the route without them. This has, unfortunately, occurred many times in the recent history of climbing, and Peter -again- elevates himself by keeping his style of ascent to himself.

PS Kudos to the drone photography...this stuff is remarkable, and I think it is THE BEST way to film climbing. But, the noise has to be just a bit unnerving to the climber, right? May 31, 2015
Gargano
Oakland, CA
Gargano   Oakland, CA
vimeo.com/112946098 Dec 9, 2014
Scott McLeod  
 
Harddd but brilliant(at least for us mortals). one of the most stellar lines around, if nothing else for its improbability. You get it all: power, delicacy, spook-factor. Get to it soon, it seems to be deteriorating bit by bit... Nov 1, 2008
Brad, there seems to be some confusion as to how it starts off the ledge, so I edited the location info, slightly. I think that the 5.9 variant you mention is the standard start, but I usually put in a piece or two. Nice job on the send! Oct 13, 2008
christ
 
christ  
 
By far one of the best routes in Utah. Oct 12, 2008
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This route is really amazing. It links up so many improbable features to create a mega route. It has to be at the forefront of LCC's proudest lines- highly technical through one sequence, delicate and scary through another, explosivley powerful through another; it climbs like multiple 5.12 routes condensed into one. It sort of reminds me of a much harder version of Mother of Pearl. Protection is adequate, but not obvious nor straight-forward, and the exposure on the overhanging headwall is awesome! A full 70 meter rope puts you right back down at the scrubby belay ledge. Consider carefully soloing a steep 5.9 choss variant at the start (about 20 feet to the right of the Butterfield route) up to the ledge where you clip the first (thank God!) bolt. Put aside all your other projects and climb this route- more traffic will knock off the weathered rock-its as good as rock climbing gets! Oct 4, 2008