All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Green Adjective Gully

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast

Name: St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast
Rating: 2.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Green Adjective Gully

L › R R › L A › Z

	After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Axe Wound S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Badlands S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Black Ops T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Box Elder Cling T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Bradlands (AKA Bad Mutha) T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dangling Participle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Divine Intervention A2
	Eve Traverse (Free), The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
	Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Garden Song T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Green Corner, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Holy Ghost T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Last First Crack T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Lucid Dreaming T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	MDMA T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Meals on Wheels S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Merrimaker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
	Oasis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Savvy T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Solo Slot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Surprise Beginning S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Temporary Sanity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Trinity Left T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Victory Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	40.5741, -111.7543
FA:	Callum Hudson, Paul Peterson 1978
Page Views:	1,462 total · 11/month
Shared By:	GRK on Sep 14, 2014
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Are you climbing in the Green A and someone's gang banging your super proj? Have a go on St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast. Nice, well-rounded climbing over interesting terrain; this is an exciting lead with some old-school flare. Undescribed in the Wasatch Guide, most should find this route to be quite memorable.

Begin on the right side of the face and climb up a dihedral/crack until you can gain an undercling/roof feature. Follow the roof left about 15 feet until you reach the base of a large, prominent crack. Pull the small roof feature using a savior chickenhead and land on a stance just above the roof. Take care to protect yourself here, then prepare for the business. Continue up the obvious, troublesome crack until you gain a stance. Top out the route on a nice ledge, build an anchor in a set of horizontal cracks, or redirect your second and belay from a lower set of chains.

Good, old school climbing at its grimiest. Pucker up and send!

Location

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast

is high in the Green Adjective Gully. It lies on the east side of the canyon and is two lines right of Wheels on Fire.

Protection

A single set of cams up to a #3 bd camalot sufficed for me, while some people may prefer a #4 or #5 camalot or cam that fits 6 to 7 inches for the dihedral at the start.