Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Callum Hudson, Paul Peterson 1978
Page Views: 660 total · 11/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Are you climbing in the Green A and someone's gang banging your super proj? Have a go on St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast. Nice, well-rounded climbing over interesting terrain; this is an exciting lead with some old-school flare. Undescribed in the Wasatch Guide, most should find this route to be quite memorable.

Begin on the right side of the face and climb up a dihedral/crack until you can gain an undercling/roof feature. Follow the roof left about 15 feet until you reach the base of a large, prominent crack. Pull the small roof feature using a savior chickenhead and land on a stance just above the roof. Take care to protect yourself here, then prepare for the business. Continue up the obvious, troublesome crack until you gain a stance. Top out the route on a nice ledge, build an anchor in a set of horizontal cracks, or redirect your second and belay from a lower set of chains.

Good, old school climbing at its grimiest. Pucker up and send!

Location

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast is high in the Green Adjective Gully. It lies on the east side of the canyon and is two lines right of Wheels on Fire.

Protection

A single set of cams up to a #3 bd camalot sufficed for me, while some people may prefer a #4 or #5 camalot or cam that fits 6 to 7 inches for the dihedral at the start.

Photos