Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brad Gilbert, Lynn Wheeler adn Jeff Alred, 1980
Page Views: 4,884 total · 32/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A fine piece of rock that climbs like a sport climb with gear placements. Seems like you get a good pump on this one but it eases up at the very top. This route is the first part of Mother of Pearl which can be divided into three pitches.

Location

On the right side of the gully you have to walk up and under a large collapsed boulder. About 60 feet after is another collapsed boulder where Unreliable starts. The route is 20 feet left.

Protection

Set of cams from #3 camalot down to yellow tcu. Some may like a few medium nuts.

Photos

Rob T  
i don't think it really deserves an R. The guide book gives it one b/c before Old Reliable fell off, the opening sequence was 10' above a broken block landing. Now it's right off a nice flat gravel landing. The pro is less obvious than most LCC cracks, but you can get in a bomber piece every bodylength or so. Jul 10, 2006
Not R.... Aug 10, 2006
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
yeah, not R Sep 17, 2006
tenesmus
  5.11b
tenesmus  
  5.11b
If you blow the crux you'll tap so if its not R then its at a minimum very intimidating for the .11 leader. Oct 15, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Got on this for the first time today, seconding, which was a good thing. I didn't fall, but wow, not my idea of a nice trad lead, for me at least. The bottom section seemed very heads up to me. Gear is possible and everything, but you better be on it, as you're placing from the crux stances, and you're close to the ground, but still high enough to get hurt. Sep 26, 2007
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
The moves are all there on this climb. It's a little sketchy off the deck until you reach the quasi roof, but the pro is pretty good the whole way. Highly recommended. Oct 1, 2010
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b
This is definitely a classic! The crux is the bottom, however I found plenty of places to set cams down low if you want to protect it well. In other words it's only an R if you want it to be. Very clean route. Unforgetable moves with bomber holds just when you need them most. I didn't use anything bigger than a 0.4 Camalot. Oct 9, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Definitely not a classic! (at least not by itself) Maybe this shouldn't even be considered a route anymore... its a 40ft approach for the all the great climbing above the first set of chains.
Do yourself a favor and keep going higher, to the top of the wall. Oct 13, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Interesting to hear that the rockfall that destroyed Old Reliable actually made the landing of this climb better. Although I am still confused as the book says, to paraphrase, "hardly a chuckle. a groundfall is likely until an obvious nut placement 20 feet off the deck is attained and clipped." There is a bomber #3 and .4 camalot placement 8 feet of the ground, so does that mean that the initial climb was longer? I.e. rockfall raised the landing higher?
Definitely place another .4 camalot under the roof from the gaston stance before initiating the crux moves or you will hit the ground. Great climbing, and not R. Bring quite a few small tcu sized pieces up to .5 camalot. May 19, 2012
"so does that mean that the initial climb was longer? I.e. rockfall raised the landing higher?"

Yes, the rockfall did raise the start up.
It used to be a lot more spooky than it is now.
Also I'm just guessing that Brad Gilbert, Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Alred, back in 1980 didn't have the swank BD racks of 2012.
None the less take this all the way to the top of Mother Of Pearl and
it's one of the best pitches in LCC. Oct 7, 2012