Type: Trad
FA: Madera and Butterfield
Page Views: 5,120 total · 33/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on May 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is a good AIRY, albeit short, rightward traversing crack climb with commanding position - read: more people should climb it. Despite its short length of actual climbing (~50 feet), if 5.10 hand cracks are near your limit like Mexican Crack's traverse, this route should give you a nice pump.

The only cons about this route are (1) a seemingly long approach with some bushes and scrambling and (2) it has slightly painful jamming.

This route may be difficult to discern. It did not look like what my partner and I had perceived after looking at Ruckman's topo. One can view it from Wheels on Fire up the canyon about 50 yards and midway up the wall. It does not look like much of a climb from the ground, but if it were closer to the parking it would be pretty popular. It traverses way more than it goes up.

Also, when you finish and rappel off of this climb, you can toprope the 5.10+ below the anchors - better and harder than it looks with gritty rock that might clean up with more ascents.


This is not too much further up the gully from Wheels on Fire. Near Wheels you have to do some scrambling to gain the gully above. From there, walk up canyon about 75 yards. Before you reach the Box Elder trees and the nice slab left of them, you have to scramble up a chimney to reach the heavily scrub oak covered ledge. From there, walk left on that ledge about 40 feet to gain a large flake. Walk between the flake and the main wall to reach the base of Sinsemilla.


.75 Camalot to 3 Camalot(mostly 1's and 2's); You may want to include (1) 3.5 camalot

Recently updated anchors.
Never been able to find it. Can't wait to use your info - thanks. Looks close to Oasis... Jun 27, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
You would have to wait in line for this route if it weren't such a long hike. Awesome jamming and exposure from the start. There are good stances for pro (and rests) until the feet run out beneath the crack in an overhanging section. You'll get a pump for sure, and you might get a chance to see how well you place gear too! Ten, I'll be your guide for Sinsemilla if you let me second Oasis for you... Jul 28, 2007
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
I highly recommend tape or very careful jamming. This one will cut you up. Apr 16, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
I'd recommend a #4 for the start or be prepared for some hard to protect funk. A #3, a couple #2 and up to three #1 come in handy. Of course if you're burly you'll need half that. Didn't see room for anything smaller.
Leave the nuts at home and build a mini anchor at the base with smaller cams if you're worried about getting pulled off.
Prepare to get worked if you have meaty hands, the crux is tight #2/baggy #1. IMO the comparison with Mexican's not-so-steep 5.9- handcrack is silly. This is a different game.

Rappel all the way to the ground (below the OW scramble/5.6) and then some with a 70m.

Side note: Oasis looks burly. May 5, 2011
As mentioned earlier this one is sharp. To be specific, the outer lip of the crack is very sharp, so as a thin hands crack it'll chop up the backs of your hands pretty good.

Ps. Green metolius are good on this one. I felt the #1 bds were fairly tipped out, and that #2 bds were rather overcammed. Jun 18, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Really great handcrack. Bit of workout to get to. If you are struggling to locate this one, it can be seen as low as from Looney Tunes/Trinities, but best from Wheels. Look high up the gully on the west face and you should see an obvious rightleaning handcrack. It actually is more difficult to see as you get closer to it, which can be frustrating. Great directions by the poster, although I think this crack looks exactly like it is described by the Ruckman boys. Doubles #1-#3 camalot and one #4 is all I used. Perfect jams the whole way with some creative feet action. May 19, 2012
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
definitely got a whiff of the sensi about halfway through this route coming out of the crack. Great name and fun route minus the crappy descent/approach. Nov 2, 2012
Courtney Pace   Sandy
No #4 needed. 3-4 #1 camalots or green metolius useful. The #2 camalots will go in every so often but thats where you wanna jam. Approach was easy with the directions provided. Don't be embarrassed to tape, it will save the hands for another day of climbing. Jul 24, 2013
What the .... ! The above posters must have rocket powered hand jams. This felt 11c to me.

More approach beta. The climb is actually on the west side of the gully. From Wheels on Fire, scramble upward on slippery slabs, then cross over to the west side of the gully. Hike uphill for around five minutes, passing a long overhanging east-facing wall, until you reach a corner with a low-angled 10 foot slab to your right. Gear up and leave packs here. Scramble up the slab, then move back to the west wall and find a 5.5 twenty foot chimney to your left (west), leading to the upper tier above you. At the top of the chimney, look over to the west wall and you'll see the slot leading to the base of the route. A 70 meter rope drops you right onto your packs. Jun 1, 2014
Kurt Howes
Kurt Howes  
Let's not get out of hand here. In keeping with LCC standards, this route is a 10- (aka 10a/10b). No harder than wheels on fire or Mexican crack. If your hands are huge then jamming those tight twos/loose ones will make it harder; but so it goes for crack climbing. In most other locales I agree; 10.c. Just wouldn't want to scare anyone away from such a stellar climb. The 10.d to the right warrants a quick TR for sure. Also, I didn't use a #4 but instead got a deep .75 to keep us both on the deck for the start and you can pretty easily get your first #1 without fully launching into the route. Maybe if you bring doubles from #1-#3 you'll feel secure enough to call it 10.a. Mar 8, 2016
Ty Gregory
Salt Lake City
Ty Gregory   Salt Lake City
"Let's not get out of hand here."

Woe, whoa, whao, what? Sometimes you have to poke your head above the muddy crevice and ask yourself is it 5.10a or d or c? You barely got your eyeballs above the surface and dove back in took a muddy gasp and the smell made you choke. Respectfully Sir, you stink.

Hot shit stinks. Mar 24, 2016