Type: Trad
FA: Madera and Butterfield
Page Views: 5,337 total · 33/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on May 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a good AIRY, albeit short, rightward traversing crack climb with commanding position - read: more people should climb it. Despite its short length of actual climbing (~50 feet), if 5.10 hand cracks are near your limit like Mexican Crack's traverse, this route should give you a nice pump.

The only cons about this route are (1) a seemingly long approach with some bushes and scrambling and (2) it has slightly painful jamming.

This route may be difficult to discern. It did not look like what my partner and I had perceived after looking at Ruckman's topo. One can view it from Wheels on Fire up the canyon about 50 yards and midway up the wall. It does not look like much of a climb from the ground, but if it were closer to the parking it would be pretty popular. It traverses way more than it goes up.

Also, when you finish and rappel off of this climb, you can toprope the 5.10+ below the anchors - better and harder than it looks with gritty rock that might clean up with more ascents.

Location

This is not too much further up the gully from Wheels on Fire. Near Wheels you have to do some scrambling to gain the gully above. From there, walk up canyon about 75 yards. Before you reach the Box Elder trees and the nice slab left of them, you have to scramble up a chimney to reach the heavily scrub oak covered ledge. From there, walk left on that ledge about 40 feet to gain a large flake. Walk between the flake and the main wall to reach the base of Sinsemilla.

Protection

.75 Camalot to 3 Camalot(mostly 1's and 2's); You may want to include (1) 3.5 camalot

Recently updated anchors.

Photos