Avg: 2.9 from 42 votes
|FA:||Madera and Butterfield|
|Page Views:||5,897 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Colby Wayment on May 16, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
The only cons about this route are (1) a seemingly long approach with some bushes and scrambling and (2) it has slightly painful jamming.
This route may be difficult to discern. It did not look like what my partner and I had perceived after looking at Ruckman's topo. One can view it from Wheels on Fire up the canyon about 50 yards and midway up the wall. It does not look like much of a climb from the ground, but if it were closer to the parking it would be pretty popular. It traverses way more than it goes up.
Also, when you finish and rappel off of this climb, you can toprope the 5.10+ below the anchors - better and harder than it looks with gritty rock that might clean up with more ascents.