Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: JS, Kent, Maya, Halley, Nov. 2014
Page Views: 811 total · 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jan 31, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Go 'hawks. Get set atop the obvious boulder. Rush up the middle past three bolts. Reset, then sweep right up a shallow ramp and incipient cracks to the bottom of the dihedral. Play-action up the dihedral, and break containment right past a bolt to get established under another bolt. Punch it in or punt. Despite hours of prep, expect the field to be gritty. Be very mindful of rope drag.

Location

Just right of After the Fall. Lower from chains.

Protection

Nuts and a set of cams to a No.2 (yellow) Camelot, with a few extra finger-size cams. Offset brass nuts (or peanuts) useful for the ramp. Using shoulder-length or longer slings in the dihedral will help prevent rope drag.

Photos

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mac gilbert  
 
Fun face climbing down low leads to a dihedral that is reminiscent of mother of pearl (but easier). Good climb worth doing. Sep 9, 2016
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
Just before the final roof moves, a gray TCU and/or .1 X4 seemed crucial pieces, the TCU held a decent fall when another piece pulled.
But I was aiding the route so what do I know. If I was free climbing it I'd definitely take a few tiny cams for that section Jul 1, 2018