Avg: 3.7 from 394 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Black & Gibbs '74|
|Page Views:||21,056 total · 98/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Gram on Apr 4, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Start in the huge dihedral downhill from The Green Adjective. This is also the same start as Touch Up and Perhaps.
Climb the dihedral, which is very moderate for the first fifty feet or so. Continue up through slightly increased difficulty to a big undercling flake.
Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks), which quickly gets to the second crux, a hand crack through a bulge. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet.
Finally, traverse right ten feet on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.
A second option exists for this route which is also really good. Climb the 1st pitch of Perhaps and stop at the belay anchor. Begin here up Gordon's Hangover by climbing the left-most dihedral which leads into the over-hanging flake. Another great option and a different variation which is a more interesting start IMO.