Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jonathan Knight and Mike Anderson
Page Views: 2,775 total · 18/month
Shared By: jonathan knight on Aug 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route starts as per Unreliable, but moves right past the double cracks to a right trending flake traverse. At the high point of the flake, punch straight up the tiered face past 3 or 4 bolts to a rest.(cruxy) From here you can traverse left and finish on Unreliable, or go straight up past another bolt then move right gain a scoop. Stand up in the scoop to the Unreliable anchors. I think Mike did it a couple of years ago with the Unreliable finish. The direct finish definitely adds some quality, and is just as hard as the other. The belayer may experience the Golden Showers of pebbles that come off of a couple of choss-jugs on route. Thats just one example of the strange climbing on this recently exposed face.

Location

East wall of the Green A. Branches right off of Unreliable and shares its anchor as well.

Protection

Some small cams for the flake down low then 6 or 7 bolts to the anchor.

Photos