Fallen Arches Approach
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,178 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Ken Noyce on May 8, 2017 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the approach pitch for Fallen Arches, however, you could certainly climb just this if you are looking for something super easy. The route follows the obvious corner fist crack just below Fallen Arches and the crux is encountered near the beginning where the crack is the steepest. Once through the crux, continue up the broken section through the scrub oak until you reach the left angling ramp leading to the base of Fallen Arches. Sling the big tree for an anchor and bring up your second.
Location
This route is the obvious easy looking corner to the right of Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer, and shares the start with St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast. Rap off the anchors for those two routes which can be found on the edge of the ledge just below the big tree that you use for the anchor.
Protection
A standard rack should be way more than sufficient for this route, really one or two pieces in the hand to fist range should be more than enough to make most people feel very comfortable. Sling the big tree for an anchor at the top, and get down by rapping off the anchors for Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer.
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