Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: G.Kaplan & R.Johnson 10/06
Page Views: 17,779 total · 105/month
Shared By: glen kaplan on Sep 14, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Also known as Totally Unreliable This route begins with 4 bolts up steep granite face with gigantor holds to the left of the bolt line (5.ez) or fun, slopey, off-kilter holds to the right and straight up the bolt line (5.7/.8). Move into and up steep hand crack that travels through a short o/w section behind the 'Death Flake' to great stance and ledge hold under roof. Lie back around left side of roof to sweet 15 ft. section of splitter! This puts you at a small stance under the last overhanging section. Finishes at 2 Fixe Rap Ring Anchors near tree root.

WARNING: 60m rope works great, just keep an eye on the ends!!! Lower into the uphill cave. There are at least 2 aggressive squirrels in the area so watch your packs!

Location

15' to the right of 'Golden Showers'
30' to the right of 'Looney Tunes'

Approach as for Green Adj. and stay on the East (right) side of gully. Go through the 'Cave' and arrive at obvious belay nook (flat area, stone benches, etc.).

Photos