Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: G.Kaplan & R.Johnson 10/06
Page Views: 15,957 total · 106/month
Shared By: glen kaplan on Sep 14, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

233 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Also known as Totally Unreliable This route begins with 4 bolts up steep granite face with gigantor holds to the left of the bolt line (5.ez) or fun, slopey, off-kilter holds to the right and straight up the bolt line (5.7/.8). Move into and up steep hand crack that travels through a short o/w section behind the 'Death Flake' to great stance and ledge hold under roof. Lie back around left side of roof to sweet 15 ft. section of splitter! This puts you at a small stance under the last overhanging section. Finishes at 2 Fixe Rap Ring Anchors near tree root.

WARNING: 60m rope works great, just keep an eye on the ends!!! Lower into the uphill cave. There are at least 2 aggressive squirrels in the area so watch your packs!


15' to the right of 'Golden Showers'
30' to the right of 'Looney Tunes'

Approach as for Green Adj. and stay on the East (right) side of gully. Go through the 'Cave' and arrive at obvious belay nook (flat area, stone benches, etc.).
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
Climbed this today. It will certainly be a nice crack route when the bolts are put in and it gets a little cleaner. For right now, we climbed the chimney to the left and traversed right on the ledge. Be EXTREMELY careful on the traverse from the chimney to the hand crack (Very loose). I think one bolt should go on the clean wall above that death ledge to protect the traverse over to the handcrack.

Regarding the flake: I guess I'll have to shrug my shoulders and say "oh well, it's not that bad". I don't know how much lieback abuse it would take from big people, but it is easy jam around it. Oct 1, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
Wally29   Salt Lake City, Utah
Cleaned up real nice. Mellow face moves to a fun varied crack. That Glen Kaplan sure is a stud! Oct 29, 2006
James Garrett
James Garrett  
Seemed pretty solid to me. Really a good route. Not slabby and mostly hands which makes it unique for LCC. The sparse bolts on the first 40 feet is the only drawback, because it pulls you to the EZ ground left when the best part of the first part of the climb is really cool,too... but poorly protected when following the line of (only two!) bolts. If you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt, you would be a very hurting unit. I found the rock quality here pretty good, but maybe it just keeps cleaning up with the recent traffic. Sounds like it was a manufactured "R"...how come?
At any rate, I'll be back to it the next time in the Green A....it had been so long, I wasn't even aware of the new and improved trail up there! Nice...........Thanks Glen for making the best of a natural rock slide! Apr 21, 2007
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
This is a really great climb. The runout's more scary than the flake - don't let either deter you. Jun 5, 2007
This is a lot of fun! If you don't have that bigger 4.5 cam you can use a good nut a little lower or a small-to-medium cam just a little lower. Jul 10, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Two more bolts have been added to the start, so the original bolts are now bolts #2 and #4. Thanks for making the start safer! Jul 28, 2007
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
climbed this yesterday, thought it was catalyst....great route nonetheless. really good climbing...certainly not 5.10, though. I found it to be one notch easier than Gordon's, so I'll call it 5.9. Thanks for the route! Aug 13, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
First time on this route I placed a bunch of big pieces (2 #3 and 3 #2). I redid it yesterday and didn't place anything bigger than #2 and a bunch of micros went in. Lots of gear options, some of them require a bit of imagination. The route is still a bit dirty with gravel pouring out of the cracks and a few small holds breaking. I took a fist sized rock to the face while tugging on a cam, the placement and rock looked really solid but all came out after one small pull.
I'm not sure if it was worth the chipped tooth, but great route anyway! May 9, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
This is a great route with a wide variety of climbing! The route sews up nice and has solid hands the whole way, even more if you are solid at hand/fist jamming. It seems to be cleaning up. There was only one section with some gravel in a groove. There are 3 flakes that are marked X, but you don't need them if you are climbing the crack properly, not that I would know how to do that! :) Aug 21, 2008
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
A nice route, would have liked to #2 camalots, and only had one, but lots of gear options as noted previously. Airy moves and good jamming. Sep 7, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Great route! Watch the rope drag, there are options for gear, but hand size pieces go in nearly everywhere, so bring em if you got em. Fun, unique climbing for LCC. Oct 30, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Did this route yesterday, mid april, and despite it being really wet it was awesome. Very fun jamming and chimneying the flakes is super cool. Every 20 feet or so is a bomber rest. This route is a full 35 meters, so a 70m rope just barely gets you down. Bring doubles #.5-3 camalots and QD's for the 4 bolts. Just as much fun as gordon's. Apr 17, 2011
I am a struggling 5.9 leader. I just did this route this morning. I was very glad I took a double-rack of hand sized cams and a 70m rope. This is one of LCC's classics. I went up a middle aged man and came down a boy. Sep 15, 2011
MFL Layton
Sandy, UT
MFL Layton   Sandy, UT
that death flake will probably come off sooner than later considering that the route itself was created by rockfall- the tip of it also has a fracture in it. be careful! just as fun as gordon's!! Sep 16, 2012
Kevin Chuba
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Kevin Chuba   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
This route is good, holy crap. 4 bolts to start things off the ground. Great gear the whole way up. Be gentle on the tree at the top. Doubles in #2's and #3's I was also lucky enough to use a metolius super cam. A double length runner was a nice touch about half way up. A gear sling over the shoulder was also really nice style on this route. I'm thankful for the two fella's that helped me out with this one. Oct 24, 2013
user id
user id   SMOGden, UT
Spray Mar 19, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
Skat B   Down Rodeo

- Lots of slings
- As many #2 and #3 as you want to carry
- used a couple #1 and could've used a #4 or #5 Apr 2, 2014
No reason for these 4 bolts to be at the bottom. At least I wish there were only 2 bolts like there used to be. Its pretty much 4th class up to the crack. Sep 11, 2014
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
It was originally climbed without bolts, actually! Then two. Then four. It was also a dangerous choss fest getting to the crack. Now it's a fun, mellow section that is clean and enjoyable. If only you actually knew how it "used to be." Also, be careful of who you call "soft." Dec 1, 2014
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
A dynamic and stellar climb not to be missed. Persevere through the death flake and seize the day! Jul 1, 2015
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
Favorite climb so far in LCC at the grade (I like it better than the Coffin and the other 5.9's in the Green A area). Varied climbing, intimidating features that aren't as hard as they appear from below, good gear where you need it. Oct 3, 2016
Doubles would certainly be nice but not required if you can be creative. Oct 10, 2016
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
A fun variation is to climb up the bolt line of Fourth and Inches to the right then keep heading straight up at the big ledge to switch to After the Fall. This gives you some trickier face climbing to start. The bolted part of Fourth and Inches is 11a or so. Oct 31, 2017
ddriver   SLC
This route is now super clean, flakes are all solid. Reminds me a bit of the first pitch of C'est la Vie, just about as good but a bit easier. Oct 23, 2018