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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Gary Taylor, Pat Contor, Susan Ashley, Nancy Cohn: 1988
Page Views: 2,358 total, 19/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Grab a quick warm-up and you'll be physically ready for Stranger than Friction. The rest is up to you.

A tendon bending start puts you in at awkward stance. A fast, five feet off the ground and you've found the route's physical crux, focus and a long reach will help break the freeze. Continue climbing over crisp, thin edges to a brief rest, angle right through the mental crux towards a fixed pin. An awkward exit gains a small rest and the anchor. A short route with a long feeling!

Location

In the middle of the Green A Gully and approximately 30 feet up from Prepositional Phrase, sits Stranger than Friction. Follow the trail north into the gully from the Green A's sundeck, the route is second bolted slab from the left and has a low, under-cutting roof.

Protection

Three bolts, and a fixed pin lead to a heavily slung horn with quick links. Lower or Rappel the route.

Photos

kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.10d
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.10d
Thanks for adding the new bolts. Great climb with an exciting second clip. Worth hopping on if you're heading down from the upper gully. Jul 13, 2014
Nathan Smith
Salt Lake City
Nathan Smith   Salt Lake City
All 3 button-heads have been replaced with new stainless steel bolts and hangers. Jun 7, 2014
Ryan Goslin
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Ryan Goslin   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
This is a great route that could use an update....bolts one and four look solid but the second is a button head that spins and the piton could maybe be replaced (or if gear can be placed when its pulled that would be fine). I certainly didn't want to fall on either of them. Great dime edges and crimps past the crux start, just wish it was longer!! Jun 6, 2012
Pete Spri  
 
This route, though short, is fun and unique climbing. The granite is lipped/edged, so even though it's a slab, you are edging more than you are actually smearing... a fun change up for LCC slab.

The bolts are button-heads. There is one angled pin in a horizontal between the second and 3rd (last) bolt. It's slightly angled down, and though it seems secure, doesn't seem that deeply placed. Jun 19, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Burly moves right off the start then thin face climbing on manky old bolts. What's not to love?
Bring a saw if you want to try the 11d neighbor, Surprise Beginning. Oct 22, 2009
3rd person dab Dec 31, 2008
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Why don't you ask Zoso. He knows the book backwards and forwards. Wonder if he actually climbs. Dec 31, 2008
I've looked for this before but couldn't find it. Where is it? Of course, I can't find Sensimila crack either... Nov 14, 2007