Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FFA: George Lowe
Page Views: 24,708 total · 137/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is the perfect thin seam crack that runs up the Perhaps Area wall. It starts on top of a nice, sunny, flat perch called the "Sun Deck Boulder". Start either with a direct 5.10a start (spicy with tricky pro, bring your small stuff). Alternatively, traverse in 15' up on a nice foot shelf, but this misses out on some good climbing. Work up the crack placing mostly small stoppers and cams. The climbing gets easier higher up. Anchors are on a shelf 80' up.

There are two more pitches to this climb, but most people rap after the first. I haven't climbed them, but pitch 2 is supposed to be 5.6, and pitch 3 is a 5.7 squeeze chimney if you should want to try them.


Very small gear. 2 sets of nuts and offsets would be nice. Also, very small cams are helpful.


Vince Romney
Vince Romney  
The direct start protects nicely with a #1 stopper or similar. It's only one move of .10a, with a flat landing if you slip while placing the stopper. Jun 3, 2004
Vince Romney
Vince Romney  
...almost forgot. Link this with MA#1 and you have a highly entertaining 3-pitch climb with seam, layback, hand, and offwidth techniques. Enjoy! Jun 3, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
Beautiful line!!!! I led this for the first time a few days back, just amazing. The 10a start isn't too bad, but it almost felt harder at the 5.9 crux. Can't wait to do this one again. Jun 22, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
I only give this 2 stars well for my own hidden reasons. I am with-holding the final "possible" star until I do the route in it's entirety. Alright!! I will tell you my reasons. The climbing wasn't varied enough and the exposure wasn't present. Like I said let me climb the entire route and it may become 3 *'s

Otherwise an exciting climb. The original start is fun , but the direct start is not much harder.

Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Alright, it gets three stars. But only if you do all three pitches.

Pitch 2 goes from the anchors up the easy scramble, past a set of anchors on the left (Base of Meat Puppet), and up to and past another set of anchors (Prepositional Phrase). It continues up, to the left of the tree around the right of the prow, and up the crack with a green face to the right to a 3 bolt (2 old, 1 new) anchor. The best part of this pitch are the two right-facing cracks. The first being just below the Prepositional Phrase anchors, the second crack being green face crack. Pitch 3 is a fun (lol) squeeze/offwidth. The trick on this pitch is to find gear. We placed a red Metolius at the base of the crack, a #2 Camalot( our largest) just before the crack deepens and widens, and a small nut in the horizontal crack on the left wall. Bring really big gear, or run it out. The other question is do you face right or left. Both my partner and I did it differently.

The anchors at the top are again 3 bolt (2 bad + 1 good). We left a sling as all slings were dead. We then rapped, with a 60-meter, to the east aiming for the Prepositional Phrase anchors. We were about 10 feet short, so be careful or better yet, rappel to the north and the other 3-bolt anchor, and rap off that one to gain Prepositional Phrase's anchors.

Definitely beware of the old bolts. Oh, and also, the piton on the final pitch is absent (this is where the small nut went). Finally, it was very wet still in the squeeze. Apr 3, 2005
Definately 3 stars in my book, especially if you skip the last pitches! Mislabled as "Serenity Crack" on the cover of Climbing magazine's Trad issue (the Natural line) a few months back. I love this route, I think it is so pretty, and always a classic worth doing every spring and fall. Thin nuts, thin feet, thin jams...OH YEAH, this is what LCC is all about! Aug 30, 2005
vincent pierce  
Looking up at this thin crack you think "no way"... but somehow there are just enough fingertip holds and fingerjams to get you up. It actually protects fairly well with little nuts. One of the most aesthetic climbs in the canyon. Sep 20, 2005
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
Beautiful line. There used to be a back breaking boulder to land on at the bottom. glad it's gone. excellent finger tips and slab feets as i've t.r.'d it w/out touching the crack and bare foot using only the crack. there's a good blue tcu spot right off the ground makes a good directional to keep all those tiny stoppers in the crack Jan 25, 2006
Do yourself a favor and don't bother placing gear down low. Boulder out the 10a to the toe rail rest about 12 feet up...place a few good nuts, and blast it, placing great nuts. 3 stars...anything less is robbing this gorgeous slab climb. Feb 26, 2006
Matt Chan
Matt Chan   Denver
Not recommended in 105 degree heat. We thought it was going to be in the shade most of the morning, but damn were we wrong. Greasy shoe rubber and sweat pouring from everywhere made this seam quite a humbling experience. Lesson learned. Jul 24, 2006
A lot of fun! Sep 9, 2006
Casey Jenen
Ogden, UT
Casey Jenen   Ogden, UT
This is a great climb and I would highly recommend doing the .10 start it makes it just that much better and it is only one move of 5.10. Pro is great climbing is great just a awesome route. Jul 23, 2008
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
great route- definitely spicy if you want gear down low. bring the small stoppers, dont bother with anything bigger than a yellow tcu. Aug 13, 2008
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
Wow, great finger locks! It's all small stuff, and good slab feet for placements. I didn't place anything bigger than a # 7 BD stopper a bit higher up. Amen on the directional at the bottom...a must do. Jun 12, 2009
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Very nice climb! Slippery face for you feet, so be careful. It is a lot easier for people with smaller fingers, hence only piton scars make the finger locks. Bring ONLY small gear, no big gear needed, as I said only piton scars make this crack climbable. Well worth doing Sep 25, 2010
West Jordan, Utah
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
Only did the first pitch, but that was enough for me that night. Had some passive gear pull out leaving me very exposed. This is a great line. Oct 9, 2010
Concerning the third pitch, since I did this recently, having never done it before.

It is described as 5.7 in the book... but that is definately an old-school, LCC "5.7" from "back in the day. The last pitch is a fat crack at the bottom (hand to fist), then it hits a ~5" OW section that is sloped so it isn't too bad to get standing on. At this point you can protect with a fingerish sized piece in a horizontal. This puts you at the crux of the pitch which is a slightly bulging 6" crack that you have to get out and around before sliding into a squeeze chimney. After getting above the bulge, and into the squeeze, I could reach fairly far back in the crack due to being thin, could probably use a 4" (or maybe even a 3" piece) but if not thin, you'll need a 6" or 5" cam to protect this stretch. I did this w/o the cams since I didn't bring them and had foolishly used my 3 AND 4" pieces lower down. At this point, if you have some OW experience, you should feel fairly secure in this squeeze, arm-barring, chickenwinging, and heel-toeing/knee opposition to the top anchors.

If 5.7 is your max trad, don't expect to send this, IMO.

At the platform at the base of the 3rd pitch is a set of 3 bolts leading off into Green A gully. A 70m will actually get you to the gully floor, even though it doesn't look like it will. If you have a 60m, there is a horn slung not too far from the bottom with maybe 5 old slings and several rap rings, enabling you to get down in 2 raps. Jun 15, 2011
Matt Brodhead
Logan, UT
Matt Brodhead   Logan, UT
If finger locks and slab footwork are your thing, this climb is an ultra classic. Jun 27, 2011
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Add onto Spri's beta. You CAN rap east into the gulley over goodro's nightmare with a 60m rope in one go. land 10 ft up the low angle slab to the climbers right of goodro's and you are all set. Jul 11, 2011
. Mobes
. Mobes   MDI
awesome, must give thanks to all the pin scars. I miss this monthly "must do" climb. what I want to know is how many pins were driven in to make this climb so nice? 100s? a 1000? Dec 5, 2011
My friend suggested I wait till it went into the shade to try this one. I'm glad I listened. Only did the first pitch, but it is a stellar one. No gear worth placing until the toe rail rest, however the protection is great for the rest of the pitch. Jul 28, 2012
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Finally sent this clean. Had to work up to it and then fired up it in the cold temps. A blue mastercam is the perfect first piece after the 5.9 start followed by a green peenut, a 0 camalot (which sits perfectly one way, but is crap the other) for the crux and a final .3 X4 for the finish. Temperature matters for this climb. Jan 26, 2014
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
Do all 3 pitches! The second pitch is long, almost a full rope length, but easy. If you prefer more protection you'll want bigger gear. But the green rock on this pitch was SO great. The beta above from Nathan's post helped alot. Once you finish the green low angle dihedral, the anchors for the 2nd pitch are across the big gravelly ledge. watch out for all the myrtle spurge. These are also the anchors we rapped from to reach the ground with a 70m (after we did the 3rd pitch: a short OW/chimney). I love this route so much more having done all 3 pitches. Apr 18, 2016
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, UT
Just wondering if anyone knows when the FFA went? Saw the FA was back in 1965, but wondering about when it went free. Apr 23, 2017
I found that a X4 was too wide to protect the 10a section. Perhaps a TCU would have fit better?

I also believe that the climbing difficulty even in the 10a section is consistent with other 9s in the canyon, though relatively a lot harder to protect.

Overall it was a pretty heady climb for that first 20 feet. Even the gear at the largest finger pot after the toe rail didn't seem that good (~15') it wasn't until about 20' that I had a nut that I felt was bomber. I just kept telling my self that if I whipped'n ripped, just starfish and hope the body friction will slow the fall enough.

The movement and protection was better on Smitty's Wet Dream if you looking for a thin slabby 5.9 warmup to this one. May 3, 2018
Fernando Cal
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
Cool route with awesome smearing and finger locks! Placed only 2 cams up top, and the rest were small stoppers. 3/4 stars for the first pitch. Don't think about it and fire it up! Aug 6, 2018