Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Drew Bedford 1988
Page Views: 6,048 total · 47/month
Shared By: bheller on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The boulder crux is the crimpy and powerful bulge about 2/3rds of the way up, although holding it together on the very technical micro featured upper slab is no easy feat. This climb was rated 12b/c in the Ruckman guidebook, but it seems a few holds have broken and now the grade is suggested at 12d (very dependent on temperature!- for unbelievable friction climb it in the shade at 39 degrees!). As the story goes, after the Snowbird competition in 1988, Marc Le Menestrel onsighted this route* and proclaimed it as one of the best he had ever climbed. Impressive onsight! Sadly, to the disgust of all present, Didier Raboutou fell during his onsight attempt, hung his head, and returned to Euroland. (*as verified by the Mayor of LCC)

Location

This awesome face climb looms above the standard anchors of The Green Adjective. Climb the Green A and then scramble/ climb about 30 feet higher up to the right to another set of bolted anchors-this is the start of the route. The first bolt is up past the initial short steep section and on the slab. A series of rappels puts you back at the porch of the Green A.

Protection

After you lead The Green Adjective(bring nuts)quickdraws are all that is needed to see you up this route. Chain anchors at top.

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