Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Lenny Nelson / Jim Booth
Page Views: 4,414 total · 27/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 22, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The climb starts on ledge just above the start to Beckey's Wall and Satan's Corner where you'll find two bolts for a tie in. The Sweet Jane Variation keeps this climb at 5.7. Plug in a cam, pull a jug, and you're in the crack. There are a set of chains halfway up, bypass this belay and do the climb in one long pitch. Great finger / small hands moves in a crack that eats up pro. Most people start Tingey's with this pitch. Two stars.


Standard trad rack with an emphasis on finger sized stuff. Chains for anchors


Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
If you do the direct start, beware that an ankle injury is possible on this ledge. Our friend Justin said to my girlfriend, "Watch out for the ledge, it could be an ankle buster." Sure enough, she fell on lead before the crack and sprained her ankle. The hike out was interesting.

Still, the direct start is good. Sweet Jane is also quite good. May 21, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a PG13
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a PG13
Bobby,I would agree. I climbed it with Vince and he took a couple of good falls that spooked both of us. May 22, 2005
I would add to the comments about the start... it has greased up significantly since I first started climbing this in the 1980's, and I believe it's shy a couple crystals down low. For some reason it wasn't the best option to try with a full day pack and right off the winter couch (upside down fall...not happy). The Sweet Jane variation is likewise a tad greased up, and also not well suited to a weighty, swinging backpack. Excuses, excuses... May 26, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a PG13
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a PG13
The move is a solid bouldery 5.10 move, but not so bad, as long as you don't try to hang out to place another piece when you can with your hands. The best option for gear is to get your feet set and then place the piece. I expected to grease off this thing when I did it todayu at 11:30, but I zipped up it. Climbing without a loaded backpack makes all the difference in the world. Aug 30, 2006
The best option is to climb the 10a that is protected by a bolt, stand up like a man...then place a piece. Don't bother dicking with gear while the bolt is at your knee...you will grease off. Fire it with confidence, stand tall, place gear...continue. Nov 2, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Locking carabiner on that bolt and a super attentive belayer might keep you off the ledge if you grease off.

I think the granite below the bolt has become polished (!). Especially the right foot by the seam, just off the stance at the bottom. Dang, that's a hard move now...

Definately a route to be climbed with confidence. Nov 3, 2006
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
I finally got on this today after being scared away by a partners ankle injury which forced us onto the sweet jane variation (anyone see a reacurring theme). I had my buddy stand on the ledge to the left, clipped both bolts and took 2 or 3 falls with the bolt around my knees and they didn't feel that bad at all with a watchfull eye on the ledge and a good dynamic belay. I agrea with tea that gear shouldnt be played with until in a good stance. better than sweet jane imo. try it on a cold day. Sep 14, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
I've been on this a bunch of time and have never done the .10 move first go, always slipped off at least once. As long as you clip the bolt with a locker and your belayer isn't smoking a bowl or drinking a beer when you come off there's no reason to worry, you fall swinging left, not straight down on the ledge.
Hard nonetheless, especially since it's the warm-up move.
The rest of the pitch eats gear at 5.7, lots of fun. For a nice and fast linkup skip the anchor, traverse right on the easy slab and go straight to the tree belay for Tingey's direct. Super long slings if you protect near the anchor or you'll feel like you're pulling your belayer up with you. Nov 3, 2008
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Finally figured this one out, seemed the trick is to go way right and almost lay it back, oh and get those feet up high. Mar 12, 2011
chrisIerickson Erickson
Salt Lake, UT
chrisIerickson Erickson   Salt Lake, UT
Agreeing with 'Sir Camsalot', starting far right and almost laybacking the handhold with high feet not only is the only reasonable way to do this, but should keep you away from the ledge... Jul 19, 2012
Just for the hell of it, the sweet jane variation is the original start of Tarzan. The direct 5.10 start came later with the addition of the protection bolt. I know this fact, because on a fine fall day in 1964 ,Jim Booth and I did the first ascent. All the bolts and chains were also added over the years to which I have no objection. Lenny Nelson. Aug 28, 2018
Hey thanks Lenny for your words and your route! I love this route and it was one of the very first routes Franziska and I did after moving to Utah in 1981. Probably have done it more often than any other route in the Wasatch or for that matter, anywhere:). Strong work for 1964! Aug 29, 2018