5.10c PG13,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
FA: Drew Bedford & Doug Heinrich
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
A fun edging affair on pretty good rock albeit with some grit because it doesn't ever get climbed.
Step off the Beckey's corner and get your balance game on. There is slight deck potential getting to the first bolt, but with pro above you in the corner system I don't think it's worthy of an R rating. Bolt 2 provides more exhilarating travel over rock above the corner so have your belayer keep you reeled in. Once bolt 2 is clipped you're out of the danger zone, and can ready yourself for the upper crux past bolt 3. Once through this you can take flared gritty cracks to the top of the wall or climb a thin crack up and right to the Beckey belay.
The Ruckman guide has the topo line going to the top of the hesitation wall through some rather suspect looking stone. I suspect most climbers traverse right to the second belay anchor for Beckey's wall.
Get on this thing! Super fun climbing on great rock that needs more love.
Location
On the east facing hesitation wall which makes the left margin of the popular Beckey's wall 5.7. The route starts 15 feet up and left of Beckey's p1 belay.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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