[Hide Comment] Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -- all disguised as "4th class," in classic LCC understatement. As someone once told me, "in Little Cottonwood, anything less than 5.6 is considered 4th class." Some of the more wary among us might actually choose to protect that scramble and traverse, and even be lowered by our bolder partners. Aug 31, 2006

[Hide Comment] This is a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

HELLO YES I DID THE ROUTE WITH ROSLYN STEWART THE GUIDEBOOK PEOPLE SURE ARE SLOW GETTING IT CHANGED I KNOW ERIC B TOLD THEM MORE THAN ONCE WE DID NOT PLACE A BOLT ANYWHERE LIKELY WE RAPPPED FROM PITONS OR TREES ? MY GUESS IS THAT WE DID IT IN 2 PITCHES I HAVE A SHOT ON THE CLIMB, LOOKING DOWN A POOR BUT VISIBLE PHOTO
ACROSS THE CANYON YES KOR AND I DID SOMETHING I THHINK THE BOOK PROB HAS IT RIGHT

THINKING OF MAYBE GOING ARAPOLES IN OCTOBER

------------------------
LET ME KNOW
IF YOU KNOW THE G-BOOK AUTHOR, GIVE HIM THE WORD

ps I WONDER WHAT THE UNABOMBER'S E MAIL IS??? I COULD SEND HIM AN E MAIL AND TELL HIM I USED HIS NAME IN CONNECTION WITH A WEIRDO
CHEERS BECKEY Nov 29, 2007

[Hide Comment] Thanks, James. I took the liberty of putting your comment and the relevant portion of the letter (edited for capitalization and punctuation) in a "History" section under the Beckey's Wall description. Nov 29, 2007

[Hide Comment] The approach is definitely fifth class, being well traveled and worn the rock is incredibly slick in areas and approach (or climbing shoes) are recommended. As the guide suggests, you must scramble up to a ledge system and then traverse across. The scramble is 5th class, but very easy, and while the ledge system is an easy traverse, a single slip could have major consequence. Once you've gotten up it, access to the climbs is relatively easy. However, getting down is another matter. Both the ledge system and the scramble are incredibly treacherous to down climb. In my opinion, you have two solid options:

The first belay station of becky's wall would make for a good repel station assuming you have two 70m Ropes.

(What we ended up doing) There is a solid root system with two trees near the ledge at the end of the traverse. My partner and I set up a decent anchor on these trees using slings and a locking biner and left it behind. Please do not take these, so you and others may use them to repel from this area. And of course, be sure to double check the health of the slings and biner before repelling.

TL;DR: Bring two 70m Ropes, and be ready for a tough/semi-technical approach, or hope that no one takes the repel anchor we set up at the base of the climb. Be safe out there! Jun 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] You're trolling, right? Jun 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Harder than Becky's?! Nah.

It's really not bad although one certainly has to be careful.

Remember folks, climbing is dangerous. And skeery.


Although I have to admit, I don't miss the "slippery layback" approach that used to be in the area. That was far worse than this. Jun 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] What are you contributing to this discussion Zoso? I stand by my comment and would have loved to see a more detailed comment describing the approach here before coming to climb at the area and hope to help others with the same concerns. Jun 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] Don't take Zoso's bearish comments personally...like many of us, 90% of the time he is easing the pains of a work day and/or boring existence. The other 10% of the time he's adding content -you know "for the community". Climbing is dangerous and everyone has a different risk tolerance...your's may be lower than most. Jun 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] The chances of your slings/locking biner staying there for any length of time are 0. Jun 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Lets see......Rap off roots, or trust my downclimbing abilty. Oh yeah, downclimbing isn't something the kids do these days. Roots it is. Jun 10, 2016

[Hide Comment] Thank you Trevor for the beta. I appreciate it. We will probably just pitch out the downclimb like a lead and on belay. Climbing is only as dangerous as you make it. If you don’t feel comfortable doing something without a rope, don’t.

I love seeing old tradsters shamming other climbers for having a lower risk tolerance them bc “back in my day”. No one cares dad. Sep 20, 2022

[Hide Comment] "The ledge system and scramble are incredibly treacherous to downclimb"

..... I'm all for a low-risk tolerance but this is just silly and not helpful beta. Yes, there is exposure on the traverse and risk of injury/death. However, it's VERY easy, like the sidewalk easy with just one small step across to the next piece of "sidewalk" on the slab.

Dylan, once you do this approach I think you'll see the over-dramatization of this comment. Also, Trevor hasn't been on here since 2016 so I don't think his climbing career lasted long.

The 15ish foot "5th" class section is VERY juggy and quite secure. If concerned climbing shoes make it a walk in the park. However, if concerned about a clumsy or new to climbing party member you could scamper up and give them a quick belay. Oct 11, 2022