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Elevation: 6,127 ft 1,868 m
GPS: 40.5733, -111.754
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 245,870 total · 974/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!

Getting There Suggest change

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Schoolroom Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 479
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
 20
Schoolroom Roof
Trad, Aid
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 238
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 253
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 225
Hatchet Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 75
The Hook Variation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 676
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 390
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 190
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 138
Movie Variation
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 30
The Hook Direct
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 29
Knobs to Gumbyland
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 52
Mind Blow
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 40
The Bungle
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Talus Food
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom
 479
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom Roof
 20
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 Trad, Aid
Schoolroom West
 238
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation
 253
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Hatchet Crack
 225
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Hook Variation
 75
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bushwhack Crack
 676
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease
 390
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Hook
 190
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Movie Variation
 138
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Hook Direct
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Knobs to Gumbyland
 29
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Mind Blow
 52
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
The Bungle
 40
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Talus Food
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Schoolroom Area »

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