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Schoolroom Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Schoolroom Area
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Angling Angels T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gumbyland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
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Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Elevation: | 6,127 ft |
| GPS: |
40.5733, -111.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 245,644 total · 984/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.
Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.
Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.
From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!
Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.
Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.
From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!
Getting There
Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.
Classic Climbing Routes at Schoolroom Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Guidebooks (10)
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