Elevation: 6,127 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 212,567 total · 990/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Schoolroom Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 379
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
 18
Schoolroom Roof
Trad, Aid
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 200
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 205
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 196
Hatchet Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
The Hook Variation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 571
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 320
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 155
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 123
Movie Variation
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Mantel Variation
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 26
The Hook Direct
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Knobs to Gumbyland
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 46
Mind Blow
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 31
The Bungle
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom
 379
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom Roof
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 Trad, Aid
Schoolroom West
 200
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation
 205
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Hatchet Crack
 196
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Hook Variation
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bushwhack Crack
 571
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease
 320
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Hook
 155
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Movie Variation
 123
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mantel Variation
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Hook Direct
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Knobs to Gumbyland
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mind Blow
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
The Bungle
 31
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Schoolroom Area »

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