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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 6,127 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.754 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 58,828 total, 342/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Schoolroom Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Roof
Trad, Aid
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hatchet Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Hook Variation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Movie Variation
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
The Hook Direct
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Knobs to Gumbyland
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mind Blow
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
The Bungle
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom Roof 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 Trad, Aid
Schoolroom West 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Hatchet Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Hook Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Movie Variation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bushwhack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Hook 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Mantel Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Hook Direct 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Knobs to Gumbyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mind Blow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
The Bungle 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Schoolroom Area »

Weather Averages

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PJC683  
On 10/8/16 between 11:00 am and 3:30 pm we had cash and phones stolen out of our bags which were located at the base of schoolroom direct. The thief went into our bags and through our wallets taking only cash but leaving everything else (credit cards, drivers license, etc.). The gear we had in our bags was worth more than the phones and cash but it was not touched. A claim has been filed with the police, please contact me if you know anything about this or had this also happen to you on this day.

I hate to think it is another member of the climbing community that did this (Based on the gear that wasn't stolen, I doubt it was) Yet it does provider a reminder to think twice about bringing phones, wallets, and valuables to the crag and leaving them unattended in your bags. Oct 9, 2016
KimRust36
Midvale Utah
KimRust36   Midvale Utah
Lost GOPRO - free cam offered for the discovery and return of a silver GoPro Hero 4 in protective case. 469-569-1474 Sep 6, 2016
LOST GEAR - REWARD OFFERED IF RETRIEVED
An unfortunate series of events led to the loss of a 70m camouflage rope
If retrieved please call/text 443-535-3524 Jun 10, 2016
I found a single La Sportiva climbing shoe in Little Cottonwood Canyon near the approach to the school room area(area with Bushwack Crack and Green Adjective), on Sunday April 19th. Shoot me a text with the size and the model/make of the shoe and we'll figure out how to get it back to you.

- Kameron 801-618-5554 Apr 19, 2015
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.

Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).

I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney. Nov 4, 2009
Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area. Aug 8, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself. Jun 13, 2009

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