Elevation: 6,127 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 166,291 total · 818/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Schoolroom Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 347
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
 17
Schoolroom Roof
Trad, Aid
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 186
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 195
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 178
Hatchet Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
The Hook Variation
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 532
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 296
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 139
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
Movie Variation
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Mantel Variation
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 24
The Hook Direct
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Knobs to Gumbyland
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 41
Mind Blow
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 28
The Bungle
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom
 347
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom Roof
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 Trad, Aid
Schoolroom West
 186
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation
 195
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Hatchet Crack
 178
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Hook Variation
 64
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bushwhack Crack
 532
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease
 296
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Hook
 139
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Movie Variation
 116
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mantel Variation
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Hook Direct
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Knobs to Gumbyland
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mind Blow
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
The Bungle
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Schoolroom Area »

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