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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Tim Wolfe, Pete Carney
Page Views: 1,041 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just right of Schoolroom Direct Start is a tree filled crack. Climb this crack (a bit dirty), until you can reach the right-slanting thin crack above the pine tree. This crack is where the fun begins. Work up the progressively better rock using this crack until it ends, then step over and left, and follow the two bolts up the steep face to a right-trending groove, which is followed to the ledge system/belay station for Schoolroom pitch 2. 5.10b No! Granted I wasn't wearing my proper shoes for this type of climb, but that face is thin and IMHO harder than 5.10b. This compared more to Cheetah, or Punany for difficulty. It is a shorter sequence than those other two routes but just as difficult. Bring tough finger tips, good shoes, and as evidenced by the bail gear on bolt 2, bring a head willing to work through a tough sequence.

Protection

2 draws for the bolts, and a standard rack would work for the rest.

Photos

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Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b PG13
All our gear was stolen from the base when we put this route up. Its a bit run after the second both due to no stances left to drill on the lead. Apr 16, 2011
Alright, I'll go back to 5.10b on this one, now that I have got my shoes patched and got the lead successfully. The crack/flake gobbles up gear, but after the 2nd bolt it gets a wee bit runout.Deal with it.

Sep 14, 2005