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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Dave Houser, Jim Downs: 1972
Page Views: 3,424 total, 21/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Jul 19, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mind Blow is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to The Hook).

The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of The Hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack Crack, then about the same to the ground.

This line was drilled by hand on lead.

Protection

0.2" to 1" cracks & bolts

Location

Starts about fifty feet west of Bushwhack Crack.

To the left of Bushwhack Crack is a set of grooves that become a hollow-sounding flake system, and then transition into a tree-filled groove. This is Mind Blow.

Photos

Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Honestly, this route would be much better done starting on bushwhack and moving into the bolts instead of climbing through the jungle. The three bolts of hard slab are spicy and fun, but the lower part of the climb is just flailing through scrub oak. Mar 28, 2016
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Set up belay in bush after climbing dirty crack, then one long amazing pitch to the base of the hook, or, continue to the hook chains. I found this to be a bit trickier than Paranoia Streak or Dorsal Fin. Might have been the warm chickenheads trying to spit me off the wall. Great line!! Nov 29, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I would recommend a rack to 2". Especially if linking to the bottom of the hook. Mar 11, 2012
zoso
 
zoso  
 
OK, 1 more vote for 4 stars then. Sep 30, 2011
Pete Spri  
 
I'm not sure how this route is getting 4 stars. It's good, but it's not amazing.

Insipient cracks lead to a hollow flake with a couple brick-sized holds that are ready to come off. Pull through this to a heavily vegetated section that you must bypass to the right. Finally, enter the slab climbing on interesting dishy and rail type features. A couple space out bolts, but all well placed at decent stances. Crux is at the seam/crack just near the lip. Interesting and fun sequence climbing past the bolt and over the lip to easy ground.

Overall, a good route, but not continuously interesting or unique enough to earn it more than 2 stars, imo. Sep 30, 2011
John Steiger
  5.10d R
John Steiger  
  5.10d R
My partner (J Fowler) ran into a wasps' nest maybe 20' off the deck, so he came back down and instead led Bushwhack Crack to just below the first tree, then moved left clipping the third bolt of Talus Food to access the crux slab of Mind Blow and the pants-filling runout above (I'm glad I was following). This is a much better start that the original, IMO; it avoids the initial funk and vegetation, making this a truly great pitch. Sep 9, 2011
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10d
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10d
did this one again
the other day and noticed
the nuts on the first
2 bolts are only threaded
on halfway, esp. the
one at the crux. May 23, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10d PG13
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10d PG13
This route will blow your mind! So glad I pushed myself to finally get on it... May 21, 2009
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10d
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10d
one of the times i did this one there was blasting going on in the boulder field below. sure enough as i was pullin through the crux "KAPOW!!!" scared me right off the wall. Jan 25, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10d
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10d
Clarification on the location of the beginning of the route. Schoolroom Direct climbs a nice finger crack. Right of Schoolroom Direct is a vegetated corner leading to a diagonalling flake. This is The Great Ripoff. Right of this is a set of grooves that become a hollow sounding flake system, and then transitions into a tree filled groove. This is Mind Blow. Next crack is Bushwhack Crack. The tree hurts the route but not enough to drop it down to 2 stars. Once past the easy crack, you will find three tightly spaced bolts that protect consistently hard face/slab work. Pull the lip and the climbing eases, but so does the rate of bolts. Do it one pitch and end at the base of the Hook.Also, on the easier upper face, you can use a yellow Metolius to protect the crack before the 1st bolt (above lip), the 4th bolt overall. Finally, what makes this climb so great IMO, is you have a decent crack sequence, followed by well protected hard face climbing (the physical crux), and then you get easier, but runout climbing above that (the mental crux). If you don't find the yellow Metolius placement and you pitch off making that move before the 4th bolt, you are in serious trouble.

Have fun!!! Aug 11, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Where is it? How many pitches? Descent? Jul 20, 2004
Vince Romney
  5.10d
Vince Romney  
  5.10d
Killer route! The moves just prior to the lip are sweet. Just barely enough bolts, definitely LCC style. Do this, then go do Paranoia Streak. Jul 20, 2004