Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Conrod, Ed Anderson, 1964
Page Views: 8,183 total · 39/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge. You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right. Watch for the crack. It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead. It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist. In other words a good varied crack. Very enjoyable.

Protection

The anchor consists of an old 1/4 inch bolt and a flake. I remember talking to someone back in 2002 that said he was going to replace the anchor--. Otherwise bring small slings for the flake. The crack protects well with a standard rack. No, matter how tempting, don't cheat yourself and clip the bolts on the arete climb.

Photos