Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Conrod, Ed Anderson, 1964
Page Views: 7,808 total · 39/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge. You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right. Watch for the crack. It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead. It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist. In other words a good varied crack. Very enjoyable.


The anchor consists of an old 1/4 inch bolt and a flake. I remember talking to someone back in 2002 that said he was going to replace the anchor--. Otherwise bring small slings for the flake. The crack protects well with a standard rack. No, matter how tempting, don't cheat yourself and clip the bolts on the arete climb.


Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
The anchor now has a bomber bolt, plus the webbing around the horn. It would be possible to rap from here, but it might take 2 ropes? From the anchor, a medium length pitch tops out Schoolroom using either Movie Variation or Schoolroom P5. May 25, 2004
Great Crack!! Not to be missed. Nov 7, 2004
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
Be careful on the scramble over to the beginning. We had a 63M rope that got us back to the bottom with one rappel, but just barely. You could rappel twice, with a shorter rope, by rappelling down to the anchors on top of Primal Scream. May 3, 2005
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
The anchor no longer has the sling and rap ring around the flake. You can continue up to the tree on Schoolroom, but expect company on weekends. If you plan on rapping the route, bring some webbing and a ring. Jun 21, 2005
Climbed it last night and added some webbing and a rap ring on what I assumed to be "the horn" just above the bomber bolt with two rap rings. A 70m rope got us back to the ramp with just a few feet to spare. Don't worry though, cause as stated above you could do 2 one rope raps using the anchors on the slab route next too it. Gear was solid the whole way. Climb felt kinda like an offwidth sloping the wrong way. I thought the crux was just above where the book says it is. Just my $0.02 Oct 6, 2005
70 makes it back down nicely. If you do the link up to the Movie variation, be sure to bring some extra webbing and a rap ring or something. Sep 9, 2006
A fun route! Sep 12, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
chrisnsmith   Salt Lake City, UT
Great climb. I combined this with the Movie Variation today. The first two times I climbed this, I thought the crux was in the bulging section. This time, the crux for me was definitely above that section. Oct 9, 2007
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
classic LCC trad! Anchor is bomber - thanks to whoever put that in!

Looks like a new bolt line to the right on the slab? Any info??? May 21, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
That's a TC route that goes at 5.12 something, it's in the book, can't remember the name. 3 or 4 bolts of heinous slabbing to an anchor in the middle of nowhere. Climbs like ass. May 21, 2010
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Thanks - shoulda known when I saw that anchor! :) Gotta pick up that 'new' book one of these days... Jun 18, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Climbed this today and really enjoyed it. Fun, physical LCC 5.7. Awkward but fun. The bolt at the anchor looked bomber and the webbing around the horn was good. I used roughly a set of cams to #4 and a few nuts. We continued up another pitch by climbing the last pitch of Schoolroom.

And yeah, a 70m rope was just barely enough to get down. Mar 13, 2012
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
I climbed a fun variation of this route yesterday, mistakenly thinking I was on Lizzie Borden. I took the left crack (closer to the Rumba arĂȘte, clearly visible in the photo) and rejoined with the standard Hatchet route 15' or so before the anchor. I turned out to be a well protected and entertaining combination of good hand jams and face climbing on the abundant knobs. I found the crux to be the same as for Hatchet before stepping over but it remains sustained and physical with that Little Cottonwood Lean! If you have already done Hatchet give this a try. Single rack is adequate maybe doubles #.75-#2 Nov 19, 2013
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
A fun lead, very well protected.

This climb begins on a ledge/ramp, and (as near as I can tell) can be approached from either below (climbing up the slot and gaining the ramp to the bottom of the climb) or from above (climbing down the ramp to the climb).

When we arrived at the bottom of the climb, we met two climbers who were rapping off schoolroom with a 70 meter, using Hatchet's anchors. The 70 doesn't get you back down to the ground, just lands you at the ramp, and there isn't a second set of anchors, so you have to downclimb/climb up and out from there. It's easy going, but there are potential consequences if you blow it, and they were not prepared for the downclimb.

We made an anchor for them at the base of the crack and lowered them off. After the climb, I belayed my partner down off the same anchor, dismantled it, and climbed up the ramp and out into the gully. I have no idea if that's the way to do it.

If Hatchet Crack was leading at your level, the downclimb could easily be the most serious part of the entire climb. Beginning leaders may want to plan to climb out still roped up, and may consider making an anchor at the bottom of the crack for the belayer's comfort. May 25, 2014
Huli Hutu
Huli Hutu  
I did this climb with Gabriel last weekend, so I will not repeat the details of our ordeal on the approach. I found that the climb itself was a hell of a good time, especially the flake system towards the top. Overall, this climb is a good beginner trad lead provided that you are equipped for the approach. May 27, 2014
Leo L.
Salt Lake City, UT
Leo L.   Salt Lake City, UT
The link up of Hatchet crack to the Movie variation of the school room route makes for an incredibly fun experience if you have a little extra time and can make the transition. Definitely a unique route if you do it in this manor, with all sorts of different technique. Standard rack (I had doubles of .5-2 bd, a single .3, .4, and 3 bd sizes plus a rack of nuts). Alternatively you can take the less exciting 5.6 final pitch of schoolroom as well.

If you do the link up, take the standard schoolroom rappels. both sixty meter rappels, head left from the tree at the top of movie var, then stick to the right (looking down from the top) on your first rappel to the second set of anchors. This method also avoids the complications some folks seem to have had with the hatchet 70 m rappel

I do recommend leaving your stuff on the first ledge before making your way to the base of the climb if you want to leave stuff behind. The scramble to get your gear afterwards is a bit awkward and you can save yourself a little trouble by leaving it a bit lower down. Oct 4, 2014
Thumer   SLC, UT
A really awkward and really fun crack. My belayer said it looked like I was making love to the crack. Sep 19, 2015
Courtney Getman
Salt Lake City, UT
Courtney Getman   Salt Lake City, UT
I got a little lost at the top of the route. Make sure if you are going for the hatchet anchors you stay right when the crack splits. Apr 30, 2018