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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tony Calderone, 1990's
Page Views: 1,267 total, 17/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route branches off near the top of Callitwhatyouplease and keeps on going. TC's rating these spicy slab moves only 5.8 is either testament to his slab skills or my lack thereof. With that said, this is fun and challenging LCC slab climbing. Perhaps others have wondered what this climb was in this popular area. Worth doing.

Pitch #1: Climb Callitwhatyouplease and just before the anchor, veer off left (west) up steep slab speckled with sparse chickenheads and belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.8/9, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up into runout terrain passing some great classic knobs and a broken up section to a two-bolt belay. 5.8+, 20m.

Pitch #3: Again, climb straight up and avoid rope drag with placements until reaching some "thank god" bolts that intersect a smooth slab with mostly tiny chickenheads on very good granite. Pass some horizontal placements and cool moves to the end of the slab. 5.10?, 35m.

From here, we traversed left and continued up a slender fin. These upper pitches may be a part of another route, but the 3rd bolt up a fin of a slab was distinguished by an older Metolius Rap Hanger with a new SS bolt. Bold and stout. 5.10ish,

Location

We rapped numerous new rappel stations and eventually passing The Hook and Bushwhack with a 70m rope.

If this climbs sees a bit more traffic, the "new route" grittiness will resolve itself.

Protection

Set of Camalots, especially smaller sizes and QDs

Photos

Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
I wouldn't wipe my ass with that LCC guide, guess the author needs money to be able to buy a few more Silver Stars to pin on his jacket? May 18, 2015
word May 18, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
SPAM! After leaving Rakkup stickers on all the cars at the Gate you're coming HERE to promote YOUR e-guidebook? How about disclosing your financial interests in this, along with a disclaimer about the profound bias in your opinion...

Edit: to clarify, this was Tony's original comment which he later edited. Looks like the line even sprouted a new pitch!

May 16, 2015