Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tony Calderone, 1990's
Page Views: 1,313 total · 15/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route branches off near the top of Callitwhatyouplease and keeps on going. TC's rating these spicy slab moves only 5.8 is either testament to his slab skills or my lack thereof. With that said, this is fun and challenging LCC slab climbing. Perhaps others have wondered what this climb was in this popular area. Worth doing.

Pitch #1: Climb Callitwhatyouplease and just before the anchor, veer off left (west) up steep slab speckled with sparse chickenheads and belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.8/9, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up into runout terrain passing some great classic knobs and a broken up section to a two-bolt belay. 5.8+, 20m.

Pitch #3: Again, climb straight up and avoid rope drag with placements until reaching some "thank god" bolts that intersect a smooth slab with mostly tiny chickenheads on very good granite. Pass some horizontal placements and cool moves to the end of the slab. 5.10?, 35m.

From here, we traversed left and continued up a slender fin. These upper pitches may be a part of another route, but the 3rd bolt up a fin of a slab was distinguished by an older Metolius Rap Hanger with a new SS bolt. Bold and stout. 5.10ish,

Location

We rapped numerous new rappel stations and eventually passing The Hook and Bushwhack with a 70m rope.

If this climbs sees a bit more traffic, the "new route" grittiness will resolve itself.

Protection

Set of Camalots, especially smaller sizes and QDs

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
SPAM! After leaving Rakkup stickers on all the cars at the Gate you're coming HERE to promote YOUR e-guidebook? How about disclosing your financial interests in this, along with a disclaimer about the profound bias in your opinion...

Edit: to clarify, this was Tony's original comment which he later edited. Looks like the line even sprouted a new pitch!

May 16, 2015
word May 18, 2015
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
I wouldn't wipe my ass with that LCC guide, guess the author needs money to be able to buy a few more Silver Stars to pin on his jacket? May 18, 2015