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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,986 total, 54/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Schoolroom West is a great multi-pitch route on the left side of the Schoolroom Wall. This climb is more quality than the standard Schoolroom because it avoids the squeeze chimney and the long traverses. Climb it in 3 to 5 pitches. Breaking it into 3 pitches is most sensible.

P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks. Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here). Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod. Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.

P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack. Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary). Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay). Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.

P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom. Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree. Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right. It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.

Descent) Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge. Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors. Make a 100' rap down to the ground. A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.

Protection

Standard Rack, pro up to a #3 camalot, aliens are useful
Nik Benko
Salt Lake City
Nik Benko   Salt Lake City
Was able to get a #3 camalot in the flake at the start of the 2nd pitch and then proceeded to grease off while liebacking. The piece held and kept me off the ground and my belayers head. Plug it in and send it! Fun route. Jun 30, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.7
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.7
Great Variation, lots of stuff to like here. Beginning of the second pitch is the closest resemblance to the start of the 2nd pitch of Crescent Crack, though I don't think most/any would climb it as an offwidth. Super fun and tons of options for pro. I would say the #4 is optional, as there is plenty of opportunities for pro around. That being said, one could get a 4 in at the beginning of the second or towards the end of the movie variation.. Oct 21, 2016
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
The flake just below the old piton, is where the spice resides. Once you make it into the crack above it, smooth sailing from there out. Jul 4, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
The crux flare/layback right after the belay on the ramp/pod is sketchy, but I was able to make it much safer by doing two things:
1. Put a #4 Camalot in the wide portion of the flare and then back off to the scooped out area to the left of the flare, just a few feet above the belay.
2. Balance up on the two chickenheads to the left of the flare and you'll be able to reach the (manky) piton, clip it, then back down and climb the flare/layback with more confidence.

Fun climb, good placements for pro. Bring that #4 and six-eight alpine draws. Mar 21, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
If you like Crescent Crack, you'll probably like this. Wonderful first pitch, terrible opening to the second pitch, just like Crescent Crack.

The wide flare is only protectable by a large cam so bring your bigger stuff (#5 probably). I didn't and got sketched out trying to layback the edge of the crack. A fall without a cam in that flare means broken ankles. Oct 2, 2013
Enjoyed this much more than repeating schoolroom over and over whenever I climbed with newbies. Apr 11, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.7
Second pitch is the best. Typical LCC 5.7 difficulty. Avoids the traverses of standard Schoolroom. A very fun outing! Mar 10, 2012
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
The last part of the climb was really good. Fun easy with awesome hand jams. But the first few pitches really weren't all that great. Really easy climbing/scrambling with a couple of just awkward moves here and there. Worth doing once though. I had a single rack and felt like i had plenty of gear. Apr 2, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great route that can use more traffic! 1st pitch to the nice ledge below the 2nd pitch flare. A 3 camalot protects the flare well. Use longs slings above to reduce rope drag and go to pine tree below Movie variation for belay. Definitely do Movie as third pitch - protects really well with small cams and nuts. Great climb! May 21, 2010
d-know
electric lady land
  5.7
d-know   electric lady land
  5.7
best way up the cliff. usually nobody on it Jan 25, 2006
ASENDR  
With a 70meter rope we wre able to climb the route in one pitch with simu-climbing from 20 ft above the big pine tree at the last lower belay. Good pro and a nice direct line up the buttress. Oct 3, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.7+
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.7+
I agree with everyones comments. This is not an easy 5.7. Other than the off-width second of Crescent this goes down as one of the harder 5.7 climbs around. There are a few trick moves but they protect extremely well. Sep 27, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.7+
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
  5.7+
I just climbed this today. We broke it into three pitches and it worked great, although communication was tough in spots. The first part of the second pitch seemed tough for 5.7. It took me a little bit to get a plan of attack for it. I wasn't sure if I should try to lay-back, off-width, slap climb it and ignore the crack, or go on the face to the left with the few chicken heads. Overall the route is really fun with good gear whenever you need it. The final pitch is really fun. May 29, 2005
vincent pierce  
  5.7
Not quite as fun as I thought it would be. I prefer the Schoolroom Direct (even with the chimney). To me the crux was the first 15 feet of the second (or third if u dont link) pitch. Felt harder than 5.7. Kind of awkward but i blindly placed a medium cam up high in the flake, high stepped onto a bump on the right slab and made the move. Ankle breaker if u fall and dont have pro. Definately link this pitch with the fun roof pitch. There isn't any reason not to. Last pitch is good. It loves cams. Next time I will try that scary looking 5.8 on the right! Sep 15, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Not consistent enough for 3 stars. Aug 18, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
The route can be seen on this beta photo, but the standard Schoolroom is the drawn black line. The first pitch climbs up to the tree before the descent in the photo, and follows the leftward trending crack to the obvious pod. Then the rightward trending crack that leads to the circled 4 is the second pitch. Last pitch is the same.

This is a 3-star climb if the Movie Variation is used. Mar 20, 2004