Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom West
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 238
votes
Routes in Schoolroom Area
|
|
Angling Angels T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Gumbyland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
|
|
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 90,840 total · 364/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Schoolroom West is a great multi-pitch route on the left side of the Schoolroom Wall. This climb is more quality than the standard Schoolroom because it avoids the squeeze chimney and the long traverses. Climb it in 3 to 5 pitches. Breaking it into 3 pitches is most sensible.
P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks. Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here). Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod. Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.
P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack. Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary). Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay). Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.
P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom. Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree. Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right. It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.
Descent) Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge. Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors. Make a 100' rap down to the ground. A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.
P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks. Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here). Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod. Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.
P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack. Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary). Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay). Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.
P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom. Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree. Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right. It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.
Descent) Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge. Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors. Make a 100' rap down to the ground. A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.
20 Comments