Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: 2007 Anthony Angelo Calderone, Angela
Page Views: 1,086 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mountain Dreamer on May 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Climb straight up a dihedral toward an obvious bush on a ledge. Climb a bolt-protected slab with chicken-heads on it to a 2-bolt station on a lower angled section of slab. Stop here to belay or blow by this. Angle slightly left, up tiered slabs, to a steeper wall with 2 bolts on it. The crux is a chicken-head mantel move, as is common on many Calderone routes. Belay at a 2-bolt station.

Location

Start from the 2-bolt station at the very top of the Bushwhack Crack route. Rappel the route. Then rappel the Heaven's Gate route.

Protection

Mostly bolts. But 1.5" to 3" cams will be useful.

Photos

Nik Sorenson
  5.9 PG13
Nik Sorenson  
  5.9 PG13
The first bolt on the first pitch is too high to protect a potentially serious fall onto a ledge. Nov 20, 2017
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
  5.9
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
  5.9
Agreed Nick. Although you can protect the crack about 15’ right of the slab and angle back onto the route. I may go back and add a bolt to this at some point. It was too dicey to place a bolt on lead, so I just ran it out. Apr 6, 2018