Avg: 3 from 162 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Fred Beckey & Layton Kor '61|
|Page Views:||7,235 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8
P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear. Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6
P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse. Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8
P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack. It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5
Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground. From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn. One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station. Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.