Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey & Layton Kor '61
Page Views: 7,235 total · 34/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Hook starts a few pitches off the ground, with a variety of starts possible. The climb protects pretty well, but an ugly swinging fall is possible on the slabby crux traverse after leaving the crack. To approach the Hook, I recommend the following:

P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8

P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear. Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6

P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse. Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8

P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack. It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5

Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground. From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn. One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station. Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.

Protection

Standard Rack. Nothing big is needed even though it appears that way from below.

Photos