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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Chickenhead Party
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Schoolroom Area
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Angling Angels T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chickenhead Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gumbyland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Route to Madagascar T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
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Schoolroom Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.754 |
| FA: | Adam Brown & Brian Smoot, November 2025 |
| Page Views: | 288 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 14, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a better protected moderate face / slab route on great rock. Begin up a short crack to the tasty face above. Ascend nobs and chickenheads past 5 bolts to a 5' flake. This takes small cams. Continue up past a small roof to a bolted belay and the finish. It's also possible to split this climb into 2 pitches by moving right about half way up to the belay on Heaven's Gate. This climb can be descended with a single 70m rope.
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