Type: Trad, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: George Lowe and Dick Ream
Page Views: 1,283 total · 15/month
Shared By: DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.

Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.

Location

Starts at P4 of Schoolroom. Continue up the chimney instead of heading left under the Schoolroom Roof.

Protection

Standard rack. If you head right out of the chimney towards Knobs to Gumbyland, a 4" piece can protect the flared crack between the chimney and belay station, or dig into the dirty flare a little deeper to make a 3" cam fit.

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Finally got around to checking this out and would recommend to anyone wanting to grunt a little. I was okay with a single set up to a 3 camalot but it might have been nice to have one cam a little bigger. With a 60m rope you can just barely rap from the tree to the ledge leading to the bolts below the hook crack. You can't make it to the station though so a 70 or two ropes recommended if descending that way. Oct 27, 2014