Schoolroom Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.5733, -111.754 |
| FA: | George Lowe and Dick Ream |
| Page Views: | 2,631 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.
Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.




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