Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1996 Tony Calderone
Page Views: 869 total · 19/month
Shared By: Mountain Dreamer on May 15, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Continue straight above the Schoolroom Mantel Variation. Climb the right edge of a block. Continue straight up the black water streak protected by bolts. Belay on a ledge with 1 piton and 1 bolt. This is about 130' above the ground.
Continue straight up more bolt-protected face to the bush belay on Schoolroom.

Location

Most folks start this route by climbing The Schoolroom Mantel Variation.

Protection

The route is mostly bolt protected. But I would bring a standard rack to 3".

Photos

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Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Wondering how many ascents this rig has seen? Burly mantles, zero feet followed by edging on consistently breaking potato chips…this one's a major "Granite Exfoliation Expedition!" Sep 20, 2015
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
  5.12
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
  5.12
Agreed Jim. State of Confusion suffers from the same problem. Slabs at the higher difficulty just don’t get the traffic to keep the exfoliating flakes cleaned off. Apr 6, 2018