Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,421 total · 19/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This pitch is a really good way to finish Schoolroom or Schoolroom West. From the tree belay below the last pitch of either of those route, climb up and right to the gorgeous overhanging dihedral. Jam and smear under the roof and around the corner - tenuous 5.8 but really well protected. Jam the handcrack above until you get to some jugs, at which point it is low 5th class to the belay tree.

Protection

finger to hand or fist sized pieces. nothing smaller than a red alien.

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.8+
I found this to be a hard 5.8. Protection is wonderful, and climbing is great, it just seemed to me to be harder than other 5.8 cracks. Maybe, because there are few to no "stances". Jamming on this over the head crack seemed to me to be harder than it was worth, so I just used the undercling/lieback technique. Love that transition move to the vertical crack. Oct 14, 2004
Solid little cottonwood 5.8!! This one will test your foootwork for sure! Short, but not to be missed! careful how you runner at teh corner...my partner runnered poorly, and piched his rope....fighting drag all the way to teh top! doh! Aug 30, 2005
vincent pierce
  5.8+
vincent pierce  
  5.8+
5.8? I must have done something wrong cause I struggled after it turns the corner and goes vertical. The undercling shuffle is quite fun and if it were longer it might get an extra star. Unfortunately it's really only a few moves and you're done. Sep 27, 2005
This thing kicks ass!!! Climbed it yesterday afternoon for the first time as a finish to Schoolroom West - also the first time I had climbed that route as I am a beginning trad leader working my way back up through the grades after climbing almost all sport thus far in my short climbing career. Rock quality is *** for sure on the first half of the pitch then goes to no *'s the last half as you bushwack to the belay tree. You can plug bomber gear just about anywhere in and around the dihedral. I remember using mostly 0.75" size cams with maybe a 0.5", #1 and #2. Didn't have a problem with rope drag at all around the corner and I didn't extend my trad draw there - just kept firing. There are plenty of decent "stances" with solid feet and bomber hand jams to stop and plug gear as long as you know on the first try which size cam to use. I frickin' love the little granite crystals and small dishes that you're standing on that can't be seen from the belay spot. Also, the way that thing looks as you 'round the corner is RAD!!! Don't let it intimidate you - go get it and have fun. Pro is bomber and a fall would be totally clean. Nov 24, 2005
tenesmus  
 
Harder than Satan's and easier than the start of Mexican. When it turns vertical and you're jamming the crack with your left foot and smearing the face its like an easy,slabbier version of the S-crack. Pretty cool. Sep 9, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.8+
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.8+
fun fun fun, puts a little meat into the schoolroom for sure. I jammed the whole thing, except for maybe pulling around the corner. Then again I'm a wuss with laybacking, so I probably just made it harder on myself. Apr 27, 2007
Josh Cameron
California
 
Josh Cameron   California
 
When the roof pushes you out right, look for little nubbins on the face for your feet. They're small, but seem to make it a reasonable 5.8. Jul 4, 2011
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
5.8+
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
5.8+
This thing is fun! I guess this is Little Cottonwood 5.8 but it definitely seemed harder than Pentapitch which I think is a little soft for LCC 5.8. The undercling traverse is somewhat committing but really well protected. Just trust your gear and go for it! We did this as a second pitch to Hatchet Crack which was a good linkup. I didn't place anything smaller than a .5 C4. Sep 3, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.8
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.8
Sweet finish for any of the Schoolroom variations or hatchet crack. fun variation that may seem more committing than other LCC 8's depending on how dialed your crack technique is, but no harder than a 5.8. Super straight forward to protect, so don't get scared away! Oct 21, 2016
Max H
5.8+
Max H  
5.8+
Did this route this morning. If you're sitting on your computer trying to figure out if you want to go for this variation next time you cruise up Schoolroom...here's some food for your thought. The crack is incredibly similar to the bottom section of Bushwhack Crack (before the first bush), although it is horizontal & slightly diagonal. The feet below the crack felt very similar to the ~10 foot traverse on "The Hook" from the top of the iconic hook crack to the first bolt of the slab section -- a little slick, but very doable with a good set of eyes and confidence in your rubber. The gear is golden so I'd recommend giving it a try! Aug 6, 2018