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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,382 total, 14/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 23, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts. If you can climb this climb, then you can mantel. Very enjoyable, just short.

Protection

Slings are around the tree at the top, but bring your own just in case. 3 draws for the climb.

Photos

Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.10-
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.10-
Mantle is 5.9 eh? Maybe in 50 degree weather, in the 80's. Jul 8, 2016
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
If you have a hard time getting Dennis Turville's number, I could probably get it.. Jun 15, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
No way, that guy's a hack.

Pretty sure Pete C, BS, etc etc had lead it prior to '85. I recall many folks that knew it'd been led sans bolts prior to '85.

I'll bet a whole slug of folks led it back in the day. 70's at least. Given the Lowe clan floatin' around, etc, wouldn't be surprised if it was done in the 60's. Jun 12, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
The picture I posted under my profile is of one of the guidebook authors...on the route.

And, DT concurred as well (we sat at the base of the route and discussed all the bolts).

I believe every bolt below where the standard Schoolroom route traverses across is on what is/was known as the mantle variation. The bolt line follows the natural weaknesses. Same route I lead ground up on site in the mid 80's (and was commonly done prior).

I'm not saying that the bolts should be yanked. I clipped the darn things last time I led it, for sure. I guess my days of soloing that type of terrain are gone...

Its a fun variation and a neat way to start schoolroom. May 23, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
The mantle variation was in Desperate Grace in 1975, Wasatch Granite in 1977 and Wasatch Rock Climbs in 1984. As well as the latest Ruckman guide. Was perhaps more clearly stated as following the water streak in those earlier guides. As also mentioned that folks more commonly top roped it, but, after talking with a couple of the old guard (guidebook authors), I'm sure it was led way back in the day. No question in my, or the guidebook authors' minds that the bolts are ON the mantle variation. There just isn't any other mantle-esque terrain around there, and, its a natural line. Commonly done as a alternate start to schoolroom, or, a TR. Jul 20, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Route in the photo does look like the Mantle Variation. Someone added several bolts to this route. Was an established line without the bolts. Seem to recall that a bunch of folks (me included in '85) had led it sans bolts. Sorta surprised it hasn't been chopped, but, have to admit last time I led it, I clipped them darn things...ha ha.

I think there was also a variation that used a piton way out to the right as well (long gone by now). But, I seem to recall most folks used the line protected by the bolts. Described in several guidebooks prior to the bolts being added.

-Brian in SLC Jul 19, 2006
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Great var. start to schoolroom west. It adds some spice. Very good mantels. Oct 23, 2005