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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,541 total, 14/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climb follows the arete atop hatchet crack. Anyone that has climbed hatchet has noticed the killer chicken heads on this arete. This arete just begs to be climbed, those chicken heads are pretty nice. Start with a few low angle slabular moves then follow chicken heads past a few more bolts. There are some long reaches to good chicken heads. The climb generally mellows the higher one climbs but near the end it turns very slabby. This is the crux of the climb and is well protected and is only a couple of moves.

Location

Approach as for hatchet crack. Starts on the arete just north of hatchet and ends at the belay tree for the last pitch of schoolroom.

Protection

Take the same rack you would take for hatchet crack. You will be supplementing the bolt protection with gear. Without this suplemental gear this climb would be quite run out. With gear it is not bad. Crux is after the last bolt If I am not Mistaken...

Photos

bsmoot  
This climb is only one pitch long, not 4. May 17, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
SPAM! Advertising your guidebooks on a free beta website without mentioning your vested interests? Nice one...

Edit: spam edited out by Tony. Beta remains useless. I'd trust BSmoot. May 16, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
There's a few lines up there that were posted here for a while then disappeared due to controversy over bolting 5.5 lines that are commonly used as descents from upper schoolroom. May 21, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Looks like someone added a second pitch to this maybe? Anyone know anything about it? May 21, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Rack = burden on this one. A long runner to tie off a knob, a couple of cams (BD .5 and 1) or a few nuts (I placed a #4 and #10) are all you need to supplement the (well spaced) bolts. Unless you spend more time than necessary climbing Hatchet crack...
Slab shoes are a must at the thin crux which is quite the wake-up call after scampering up a perfect chickenhead ladder.
Watch your rope, a 70m puts you back in the groove at the base of Hatchet, a 60m would require some unpleasant downclimbing.

Big moves on jugs, delicate slab moves, well spaced bolts, 120': moderately radical.

edit: agreed on the squeeze, although unlike on Jesus or Jeopardy you can do that one without touching the other line. Worthy IMO. Apr 16, 2010