Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,668 total · 13/month
Shared By: Shaun Greene on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This climb follows the arete atop hatchet crack. Anyone that has climbed hatchet has noticed the killer chicken heads on this arete. This arete just begs to be climbed, those chicken heads are pretty nice. Start with a few low angle slabular moves then follow chicken heads past a few more bolts. There are some long reaches to good chicken heads. The climb generally mellows the higher one climbs but near the end it turns very slabby. This is the crux of the climb and is well protected and is only a couple of moves.


Approach as for hatchet crack. Starts on the arete just north of hatchet and ends at the belay tree for the last pitch of schoolroom.


Take the same rack you would take for hatchet crack. You will be supplementing the bolt protection with gear. Without this suplemental gear this climb would be quite run out. With gear it is not bad. Crux is after the last bolt If I am not Mistaken...


Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Rack = burden on this one. A long runner to tie off a knob, a couple of cams (BD .5 and 1) or a few nuts (I placed a #4 and #10) are all you need to supplement the (well spaced) bolts. Unless you spend more time than necessary climbing Hatchet crack...
Slab shoes are a must at the thin crux which is quite the wake-up call after scampering up a perfect chickenhead ladder.
Watch your rope, a 70m puts you back in the groove at the base of Hatchet, a 60m would require some unpleasant downclimbing.

Big moves on jugs, delicate slab moves, well spaced bolts, 120': moderately radical.

edit: agreed on the squeeze, although unlike on Jesus or Jeopardy you can do that one without touching the other line. Worthy IMO. Apr 16, 2010
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Looks like someone added a second pitch to this maybe? Anyone know anything about it? May 21, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
There's a few lines up there that were posted here for a while then disappeared due to controversy over bolting 5.5 lines that are commonly used as descents from upper schoolroom. May 21, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
SPAM! Advertising your guidebooks on a free beta website without mentioning your vested interests? Nice one...

Edit: spam edited out by Tony. Beta remains useless. I'd trust BSmoot. May 16, 2015
This climb is only one pitch long, not 4. May 17, 2015
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
Three 100’ pitches were added to the top of this route. These pitches are located left of Gumbyland. A few bolts protect sections with a difficulty around 5.9 (plus or minus a grade). Apr 6, 2018