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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 222 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.

Protection

2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10b PG13
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10b PG13
Not that great. The single leg squat to get up the chickenhead highlighted my lack of quads.

I give the sling over the chickenhead a 60% chance of staying on. Was able to sneak in a #0.4 before the traverse to the chickenhead.

2nd crux is just as heady but not nearly as difficult. May 20, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This climb sucks. Crappy rock and mediocre gear...all for one good move. Don't waste your time. Oct 1, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a PG13
I'm not sure where a 2" cam would fit in the cling. Seems like .3, .4 or .5 placements are there and solid.
The chickenhead mantel is full value LCC goodness. Blowing it would suck. A lot.
Another mantel lurks above and might have you questioning why you're leading this one... Apr 16, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Did this route 3 or 4 years ago. It was my hardest trad lead at the time. I was scared out of my mind. I thought it was definitely R rated, but I was probably just a pansy. I remember getting 3 or 4 pieces in the flaring flake thing (made me mentally happy) before committing to the moves above. The chickenhead part is pretty fun, though. Good times. Nov 17, 2008