Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 313 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.

Protection

2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Did this route 3 or 4 years ago. It was my hardest trad lead at the time. I was scared out of my mind. I thought it was definitely R rated, but I was probably just a pansy. I remember getting 3 or 4 pieces in the flaring flake thing (made me mentally happy) before committing to the moves above. The chickenhead part is pretty fun, though. Good times. Nov 17, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a PG13
I'm not sure where a 2" cam would fit in the cling. Seems like .3, .4 or .5 placements are there and solid.
The chickenhead mantel is full value LCC goodness. Blowing it would suck. A lot.
Another mantel lurks above and might have you questioning why you're leading this one... Apr 16, 2010
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This climb sucks. Crappy rock and mediocre gear...all for one good move. Don't waste your time. Oct 1, 2010
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10b PG13
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10b PG13
Not that great. The single leg squat to get up the chickenhead highlighted my lack of quads.

I give the sling over the chickenhead a 60% chance of staying on. Was able to sneak in a #0.4 before the traverse to the chickenhead.

2nd crux is just as heady but not nearly as difficult. May 20, 2017