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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Chicken Rodeo
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 11
votes
Routes in Schoolroom Area
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Angling Angels T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gumbyland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
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Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Talus Food S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,011 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.
Protection
2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.
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