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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Lizzie Borden
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 7
votes
Routes in Schoolroom Area
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Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 |
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Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,977 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 27, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Just barely left of Hatchet Crack is Lizzie Borden. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of Schoolroom rappel. It starts the same as Hatchet Crack, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from The Rumba as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).
Protection
There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.
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