Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,198 total · 17/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This interesting variation begins on the Schoolroom Direct crack (5.7 R) then joins the Schoolroom's second pitch (5.6). Rather than exiting right onto the face toward the second belay, however, continue up the corner, past dark, streaked rock and undercling/lieback leftward out the roof above. Belay in the vegetated gully using wires or small cams.
From the belay, traverse left on good edges to gain a thin crack; easy, crack-protected slab climbing leads to a short crux below an obvious roof. Undercling/jam the handcrack as it trends right out the overlap, latch the finishing jug, then rejoin the original Schoolroom just below the prominent Schoolroom Roof. Traverse left to finish at the tree or link it to the airy, A0 roof above. A great deal of gardening was required to establish this line; with a bit more traffic, this variation might provide a more direct alternative, especially if there are parties in line for Schoolroom.


A standard rack, with doubles in cams from tips to fingers.


Stevie Nacho   Utah
come on now...this has been done before. Sep 17, 2008
Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
Well, I've been climbing up there since I was a kid and I've never heard of or seen anyone on that route. You must've done some work. In old photos that was quite the jungle line. Great job Shingo. Another nice Schoolroom option. Sep 17, 2008
Stevie Nacho   Utah
ten bucks says this has been done back in the day. Come on you "old timers" you know you've sent this in the Chuck Taylors. I'm talking to you Smoot Brothers, Kim Miller, Tyler Phillips, James Garrett, Doug Heinrich, Luke Douglas, Dennis Turnville, Jansen Gunderson, Mark Bennett, Nate Brown, George Lowe, Richard Green, Greg Lowe, Guate Garcia, and don't forget Tony Calderone.

TDA Sep 18, 2008
It has been done. I had it marked as a variation in my 1975 guide book, and I know that climbers had been doing it before I did.

Don't underestimate old timers...they climbed the hell out of the Gate Buttress!

p.s. Thanks for the clean-up Sep 18, 2008
hey, everyone! thanks for clearing that up; i thought it too obvious to escape the keen eyes of those who have been around and know the canyons much better than i... i've edited its FA status, but does anyone know what this variation is called? whodunnit and when? shingo Sep 18, 2008
I was totally going to do that this spring till Brian said it'd been done. Nice work mountainsense - I wasn't looking forward to cleaning that.

I was thinking of linking in from Schoolroom streak on the cool edges and seams from the left. When you were on it, did that look like it made sense? Sep 18, 2008

To my knowledge, that variation didn't have a name. Back in the 70's, climbers didn't name, date or record variations , unless they offered really good climbing. The early guidebooks just gave them numbers 3.1, 3.2 and so on. Naming everything wasn't as common as it now is.

The Playing Hooky variation sounds good to me. Thanks for posting up. Sep 18, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Fun line, you could call it a bit dirty or just enjoy the flowering patches of indian paintbrush in the crack. Some placements down low on P2 required a bit of digging around with the nut tool, things clean up after the first 15'. The undercling/lieback section has a few crumbly feet and strenuous gear placements.
Sling everything long or the traverse to the belay will kill you. The gear recommendation was spot on, we took doubles from .3 to .75 and I ended up leading P2 with a single set as the anchor swallowed the doubles. I made it to the belay with nothing to spare.
Good eye on this one Shingo, you should advertise it more so it cleans up! Jun 10, 2011
Brian G
Brian G  
Very cool line. I did have to do some weeding to place gear but I didn't mind at all. It would be great if this saw more traffic. The rope drag on the traverse did get horrible. Three stars despite the dirt and flora in the crack. Jun 14, 2011
Great variation. Pretty clean rock. No rope drag if you engineer it right. Jun 24, 2011
Anyone know what the "direct" start is? Schoolroom was crowded, east adn west, so I ventured straight up, headed up a legitimate "bushwack" crack (hands to bushes to trees) to a little belay cove. From there, I could step out onto the face and go up playing hooky. Just curious if anyone knows much about this. It was a fun venture to beat the crowds. Mar 22, 2012
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
I agree, a bit more gardening is going to help this crack out. I pulled a few weeds, but definitely for a veggie lover ;) it could use a bit more cleaning until it gets stellar status. Cool route, do it to Movie Variation for a nice multi pitch outing! May 25, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Fun variation, especially if you have a green thumb. Some really sweet under clings and laybacks on this variation. Worth it if you've done the standard, west, and want a different adventure. Nov 10, 2016