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Playing Hooky Var.
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 29 votes
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 5,309 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | mountainsense on Sep 17, 2008 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This interesting variation begins on the Schoolroom Direct crack (5.7 R) then joins the Schoolroom's second pitch (5.6). Rather than exiting right onto the face toward the second belay, however, continue up the corner, past dark, streaked rock and undercling/lieback leftward out the roof above. Belay in the vegetated gully using wires or small cams.
From the belay, traverse left on good edges to gain a thin crack; easy, crack-protected slab climbing leads to a short crux below an obvious roof. Undercling/jam the handcrack as it trends right out the overlap, latch the finishing jug, then rejoin the original Schoolroom just below the prominent Schoolroom Roof. Traverse left to finish at the tree or link it to the airy, A0 roof above. A great deal of gardening was required to establish this line; with a bit more traffic, this variation might provide a more direct alternative, especially if there are parties in line for Schoolroom.
From the belay, traverse left on good edges to gain a thin crack; easy, crack-protected slab climbing leads to a short crux below an obvious roof. Undercling/jam the handcrack as it trends right out the overlap, latch the finishing jug, then rejoin the original Schoolroom just below the prominent Schoolroom Roof. Traverse left to finish at the tree or link it to the airy, A0 roof above. A great deal of gardening was required to establish this line; with a bit more traffic, this variation might provide a more direct alternative, especially if there are parties in line for Schoolroom.
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