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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts, 1977
Page Views: 1,559 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 13, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.

Protection

2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.

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greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
the ever exfoliating LCC slabs.. I still chipped off some loose flakes today ( 11.14.15 ) felt pretty full on 10c slab. Definitely worth a lap if you're into that sort of thing. Nov 15, 2015
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
  5.10c R
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
  5.10c R
I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.

In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating. Jun 5, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.

Fully argee with the R rating, though.

Brian in SLC Jul 19, 2006
tenesmus  
 
It IS a cool nut placement. Fun to do Mind Blow, this and then Knobs to Gumbyland for a slab circuit. Just watch your rappels. May 11, 2006