All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

The Hook Direct

Name: The Hook Direct
Rating: 2.6

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R

Routes in Schoolroom Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chicken Little S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cornerstone T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Knobcheese S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Movie Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Primal Scream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Rumba, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
	Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts, 1977
Page Views:	2,481 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Sep 13, 2005
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.