Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Lenny Nelson, Tom Oaks, 1989
Page Views: 1,146 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just left of the 4th pitch Squeeze chimney is a face with 2 bolts. Climb this face on thin patina. Pretty flaky rock, so be careful, as it obviously doesn't get climbed much. This gives another way to add variety to Schoolroom.

Protection

2 draws, and whatever else you need to get here and get beyond the end. i.e. See Schoolroom

Photos

Lee Jensen  
 
Although I actually like the standard OW crack route for Schoolroom, I think this slab makes a nice variation. The flakes are very small, but provide positive movement and there is a finger crack to the left if things get too dicey before you clip the second bolt. Above the second bolt it is easy 5.4 slab moves. Jul 10, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
It gets very thin before you can reach the second bolt and you will reach the trees if you come off. May 17, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
I clipped the first bolt, then bailed to the chimney once I saw how far it was to the second bolt. Too bad, one more bolt and this would be a cool variation, just too runout for me as it is now... Apr 27, 2007
bsmoot  
This route was climbed back in the 70's...It's in the old guidebook, Desperate Grace. Jul 2, 2007
This is one of the few slabs that i actually liked leading, i thought it was fun and added some excitement to this entire rout. This is definitely the way that you should do this rout if you want to add some spice instead of climbing the ow, or at least give it a try, its a lot of fun. Jun 16, 2009
sean roberds
sandy,ut
 
sean roberds   sandy,ut
 
I ended up being able to place a # 1.5 wildcountry friend after the second bolt in a crack. I would almost suggest a tricam in there, making it a little less sketchy traversing. Apr 24, 2012
As the Ruckmans' guidebook says, this is unnecessarily run out. The climbing is challenging and fun but the slab slide resulting from a leader fall just short of the 2nd bolt sucks, I know from personal experience yesterday. An intermediate bolt would significantly improve this climb, and as a result the schoolroom route also because the groveling 5.6 off width gully on the right is not all that fun either. Sep 14, 2014
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
Last time I climbed schoolroom I eyed this route. I climb slab a fair bit and thought it was definitely doable. I got on it clipped the first bolt and thought I would just bail to the chimney or finger crack if it got hairy.... Man does this route sucker you in. It starts off with good textured rock. I thought "wow this isn't that hard..." Also it was great climbing!

Boy was I wrong. The last 10 feet to the second bolt are the trickiest. Water runs down that part so it's either the polished patina with crumbly edges or seldom trafficked granite that turns to kitty litter. 6 feet from the bolt the kitty litter became too much for me and I came off. My belayer took in some rope and kept me out of the bushes. It's about a 25-30 foot fall from the crux. Ruined a good shirt and got covered in slab rash Yum.

I think another bolt would add some safety as I was eerily close to getting a bush up my ass. With another bolt and more traffic this would be some pretty awesome slab moves in a great location. All that being said without another bolt I'd probably go for it again. It sure is committing and I want to finish it whether or not a bolt ever gets added. Apr 23, 2017