Avg: 3 from 456 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||44,026 total · 182/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Jacobsen on Oct 24, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1. Start on the left side of the wall and climb over a large flake up cracks that angle up to the left. About 40 feet up, traverse across to the right, downclimbing at one point. Pro is abundent, but be sure to think about protecting your partner. Put a set of opposing pieces at the bottom of the downclimb. Belay at the end of the traverse.
Pitch 2. Climb the handcrack, moving onto the face to the right before you get up under the roof. Some large pieces are useful here. Traverse right 10 feet to the belay.
Pitch 3. Follow the pretty finger crack up and left to the belay on a prow sticking out in front of a tree. Small cams or nuts work well. If you need to bail at this point, traverse right 20 feet to a set of bolted anchors at the start of the Hook.
Pitch 4. Follows a tight chimney up under the huge Schoolroom roof. Hard to protect with standard pieces and a pretty awkward squeeze. Good pro at the top of the chimney before the easy traverse to the left, passing under the roof. I found the pro on the traverse to be pretty marginal but the climbing is easy. Belay from the tree.
Pitch 5. Climb straight up from the belay tree through a gully with sweet hand cracks. Walk for part of the gully and just 10-15 past a big dead tree lying down, you'll see a set of chains to belay from.
Scramble or rappel down to the belay tree with lots of webbing. From here it's a 60' rap to the "Schoolroom rappel" chains, and then another 90' rap to the ground.