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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 28,900 total, 169/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a classic trad route with lots of variety. All natural belay stations so be prepared with cordelette or slings for setting up your belay anchors.

Pitch 1. Start on the left side of the wall and climb over a large flake up cracks that angle up to the left. About 40 feet up, traverse across to the right, downclimbing at one point. Pro is abundent, but be sure to think about protecting your partner. Put a set of opposing pieces at the bottom of the downclimb. Belay at the end of the traverse.

Pitch 2. Climb the handcrack, moving onto the face to the right before you get up under the roof. Some large pieces are useful here. Traverse right 10 feet to the belay.

Pitch 3. Follow the pretty finger crack up and left to the belay on a prow sticking out in front of a tree. Small cams or nuts work well. If you need to bail at this point, traverse right 20 feet to a set of bolted anchors at the start of the Hook.

Pitch 4. Follows a tight chimmney up under the huge Schoolroom roof. Hard to protect with standard pieces and a pretty awkward squeeze. Good pro at the top of the chimney before the easy traverse to the left, passing under the roof. I found the pro on the traverse to be pretty marginal but the climbing is easy. Belay from the tree.

Pitch 5. Climb straight up from the belay tree through a gully with sweet hand cracks. Walk for part of the gully and belay from a big dead tree.

Scramble or rappel down to the belay tree with lots of webbing. From here it's a 60' rap to the "Schoolroom rappel" chains, and then another 90' rap to the ground.

Protection

You'll use a range of pro on this route, but a standard rack will work. The second pitch hand crack will take some large cams or hexes, and a big bro would be ideal on the hard to protect fourth pitch chimney, but not strictly necessary. A 60m rope is recommended for the second rappel.
LOST GEAR - REWARD OFFERED IF RETRIEVED
An unfortunate series of events and a really really bad night led to the loss of a 70m camouflage rope
If retrieved please call/text 443-535-3524 Jun 10, 2016
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Here you go:

backcountrygear.com/falcon-… Aug 17, 2015
J Saarela
Park City
 
J Saarela   Park City
 
A number of firsts for me on this route: first multipitch, first major crack pitch, and first double line rappel, after ascending 30m of rope (another first) upon failing to find the chain anchors and going for the belay below the chimney pitch.

The actual climbing was nice, but getting off the thing was an ordeal. Didn't plan well enough for timing, so it was dark upon reaching the top of pitch 5. Rappelled from the 2 bolt anchor (both bolts could stand to be tightened; didn't have a nut tool with a wrench) mostly down the fall line to a belay tree (I believe the top of the first pitch of Knobs to Gumbyland). After rappelling from there and searching for chains in the dark for 10-15 min, decided to ascend back to the rap station as the 60m was too short (luckily we were a trio and had another rope). Made it to the belay below the chimney, and did one more double line rappel to the ground.

For the sake of being able to say "Wow, how did we not see them right under our noses?" or "Wow we were waaay off," where exactly are the "Schoolroom Rappel" chains? Aug 17, 2015
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
Concise evaluation of route:

Pitch 1: Combine 5.7R, pitch 2 5.6 ramp, and pitch 3 finger cracks into 1 longer pitch.
Use runners on this pitch and watch for rope drag, however makes for one really good pitch.

Pitch 2: Climb chimney and traverse over to the tree. Really good belay spot.

Pitch 3: Either climb the 5.6 gully or the 5.8 traversing roof. Both are equally as good.


Side Notes:
-The 5.7R section is only rated R because it involves one easy yet thrilling step over. Not R in my book.
-The 5.7R variation is way better than the normal first pitch in my opinion.
-The chimney has a small cam placement on the right wall that is money.
-The 5.8 roof pitch isn't as hard as it may look.

This is a great route! Perfect for beginners or anyone who wants a quality cruiser climb. Nov 6, 2014
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
This route is a fantastic climb for a 5.6 leader. It is true that the pitches are short, but you can run them together if you like and the protection is all there. The 4th pitch is awesome. (Gear beta follows.)

I was somewhat deterred by comments about the 4th pitch, so I brought big gear. It was not worth it. The huge cams were difficult to climb around, and the climbing itself is so secure that while you might get stalled on your upward progress, you're not worried about falling. I ended up carrying them all that way to not even place them. The pitch protects adequately with a standard rack, the chimney with a BD #.5, #.75 #1 beside the chock stones, and on the traverse you begin with good small gear (I used another BD #.5 but there is plenty), make several slab moves on good feet to a BD #2, and then several more slab moves on good feet to small cams (BD .3 or C3 #2). The placements are not bombproof, but they are there. The pitch is runnout only in the sense that you have to climb past your gear, and I don't think a 5.6 leader with good gear skills should be deterred. May 16, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6
I think it is even more hilarious that so many people call it an OW, something that typically involves serious grunting and body-parts jamming. This thing is a slab which happens to have a wide trough and a corner next to it. Paste your ass on the right wall, your feet on the slab and walk up! Sure, you can drop a leg in there and molest the edge of the crack all you want. It might even feel more secure which is probably what most people want when they start burrowing. It's like liebacking the Coffin though, it will get you to the top but it certainly isn't the way to get it done.
If you want to get ready for Yosemite (I thought Vedauwoo was the epicenter of OW spray?), avoid bad beta and get on Crescent, there's a real OW for you. Nov 12, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I think it is hilarious that so many people call the squeeze chimney pitch "miserable". Think of it as a teaching tool. Even more demonic, I would suggest that this short, wide section adds to the all-around classic feel of this route.

So do it, then go to Yosemite Valley and tell me you aren't glad you did.

Edited to address Boissal's comment below: I think getting in the crack is a perfectly fine style to ascend....I definitely had half my body in there and it felt more secure on the sharp end. It also gets the job done, doesn't have to be that strenuous, and gives a sense of full climbing engagement. Next time I might try it your way to compare! Nov 12, 2013
chris21
  5.8
chris21  
  5.8
the slab left of the offwidth is 5.9 and has two bolts Jul 23, 2013
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
3 stars when you combine the first 3 pitches with School Room Direct. Highly recommended. Easily done with a 60 meter. Jul 20, 2013
I swear I remember avoiding getting into the chimney/OW at all. That was years ago and my memory might be leaving me. I remember just smearing up the slab just left of the crack and throwing in a piece or two. Has anyone else done it this way? Apr 11, 2013
Christian West
  5.6 PG13
Christian West  
  5.6 PG13
I thought this was an awesome climb. It was my first lead ever, I actually fell on the second pitch going up that crack, you gotta shove your feet in and it feels quite precarious I think. I got to the offwidth and I really didn't like it. I would say it's more like a 5.7 and you gotta make one really technical move and there is NO protection, if you fall you're going to go a ways, I couldn't even get one piece in until getting out of the offwidth. Oct 20, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6
I felt the chimney was way more runout than Schoolroom Direct; most of my pro (what little I could get) was in suspect rock. Aside from that, the climbing was quite classic and only a 5.6! This would be a great notch in the belt for any beginning leader. Jul 4, 2011
Coyle
 
Coyle  
 
Just finished this route. 5.6 seems to be a great rating even though there are two slightly technical sections. I would not bring a first timer up it. THERE ARE RAP BOLTS UP TOP NOW They leave you hanging at the end of your rope about ten feet off the ground with a 60m, but no problem to down climb. I found two bolted routes at the top one was about 5.9 and the other 5.5ish (the beginning is super easy when you come on to the arete its classic LCC slab). The 5.5ish is a great lead route for the beginner you lead to the top. You can definitely skip a few bolts in the route. Enjoy the climbing season!!! Jun 18, 2011
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
  5.7
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
  5.7
Fun route that I will never forget.

Pitch 1-Mostly simple. Once you reach the half way point you have no hands and slim feet.
Pitch 2-Great pitch, I never look forward to it, but it's a good, short, sustained for a time. Great place to set up an anchored belay.
Pitch 3-Short again, but fun. Great line for nuts. Opportunity for a short dyno near the end if you look for it.
Pitch 4-One of the worst chimney's I've ever climbed. It's too narrow to climb in it, and I had the lingering thought that I was going to slip down and get wedged in it. If it were any more vertical you'd need a full rack of big bro's to protect.
Pitch 5-Apart from being completely hammered by this point it was a lot of fun. We'd been in the sun all afternoon and I wasn't looking forward to leading this one. It surprised me. There was pretty good protection most of the way and a beautiful tree at the top to anchor to.

Make sure you know where the rappels are and were you walk off. Beautiful view of Kermit's Wall from up there. Oct 8, 2010
chris21
  5.8
chris21  
  5.8
by far the hardest 5.6 I've ever done, downclimbing traverse on pitch 1, Off-hands to fists and elbows crack with reachy exit right pitch two, tiny finger(I couldn't get my fingers in there) crack pitch three, and miserable off-width pitch 4 there was one spot in the middle of the off-width that I was able to place a .3 BD cam way in in the ledge in the middle of the off-width, and on the fourth pitch traverse I used a .75 at the top of the off-width in the horizontal crack, a #4 BD cam in the wide part of the vertical crack in the middle of the traverse and a stopper in the horizontal 15 feet before the tree Jun 12, 2010
JoshuaP Parkinson
San Francisco, CA
  5.6
JoshuaP Parkinson   San Francisco, CA
  5.6
Got on this yesterday with my wife. I don't see how anyone would skip the Direct start. Great 5.7 crack... but not R. I dropped a super solid nut in at the top of the block/pedestal, slung it, and had it at my feet for the slab move... which was really just a mantle off the dish chickenhead. Good stuff. I combined the first three pitches (60m rope) but went off-route to the right and ended up at the bolt and chain belay ten yards right of the pine tree for the first belay. Had to traverse back to the tree once I brought my wife up and looked at the guidebook.

The off-width/underroof "fourth" pitch was definitely R until the roof. I skipped the two slab bolts on the face and could only find one piece in the off-body crevice (running between the brush and the roof for 40 feet). But the traverse is definitely not R. As you can see in my pic above ("Eloise ready to traverse") I placed at least 3 solid pieces between the off-width and the LCC "Bonzai" tree.

Fun, varied route. I'd love to get back on it and do the 5.8 Movie variation on the final pitch. Jun 9, 2010
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
With the sun setting, my partner and I decided to bail at what I think was the anchor for Mind Blow. If this is the case, I wonder about the finger crack of P3... ie, is it really a beautiful 5.6 finger crack or a 5.8+ R finger flare? Perhaps erosion has finally taken its toll on this route? Yes, this is my first time climbing in Utah so not sure if its just me and my crap route finding skills but I was hard pressed to find a 5.6 finger crack. I felt comfortable with the general grading scheme in LCC, sending Satan's Corner (5.8) without any problems but felt like I got my a$$ handed to my on this 5.6!! Would really appreciate some local knowledge on this climb, and comments on how (poorly) I routed myself through this classic LCC. Sep 18, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.6
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.6
Awesome! We did the direct start and 5 pitch, and would be easier to link the first two pitches together. The offwidth is still the hard part for me, and I didn't feel too runout on the traverse, just as Nathan said it's at the the front of the traverse-it's 15 to 20 ft. between pieces-but great feet there. May 26, 2009
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
As many others have already said, Schoolroom Direct is the best start. Pitch three (pitch two if you do the direct start) is the best but oh so short. Nov 5, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
definitly a great climb with a lot of varied climbing. the second and third pitches can be strung together on a 60m offering the meat of the route in one long pitch that definitly gets into a good flow. the traverses are time consuming to protect but they are easy and i think most people run it out a little. May 8, 2008
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
The roof is quite fun with good gear. I was thinking it's rated 5.8. Once in the gully you are right about the brush and dirt. The little chockstone move in the gully is kinda fun also, but not really the best line. Oct 18, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Probably "B/D 2", in the Brush/Dirt 1 - 5 rating system. So, not too bad. Oct 16, 2007
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
On the second pitch if you don't step out right and climb under the roof to the left, what would that be rated? Oct 16, 2007
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Sweet route! Do the direct start, which doesn't feel R at all, and don't get inside the offwidth on p4. I made the mistake of using a foot way down in there and got dragged in the crack. Ended up whaling my way up with much scraping and grunting. It would have been OK had I racked everything on my left side. Just arm bar and go at it frog style with feet on the face. There is a bomber blue alien halfway up the offwidth, a #2 and a green alien to protect the traverse. Oct 15, 2007
Adam Fisher
sandy, utah
  5.7
Adam Fisher   sandy, utah
  5.7
This thing is so overrated it seems like I was belaying more than I was climbing.But pitch 2 and 3 were both really good.
Pitch 4 I ended up slabing the 2nd half up it was so unappealing.
But the mixed climbing techniques were a good reason to climb it
slab, crack, chimney traversing, and some good old fashion face
climbing, not on my todo list but ok. Jun 13, 2007
Dukas
  5.6
Dukas  
  5.6
As far as beginner routes go this is a must do. The rock is ultra-sound, there are great ledges, bombmer protection abounds and each pitch has something special. The entire route can be protected safely with a moderate standard rack (including the chimeny and the traverse on the 4th pitch). Please just use care with the belay trees on the route for they add a sence of security and character to a great route. Oct 26, 2005
If you climb the schoolroom direct variation (best option in my opinion, maybe scary for a fedgling 5.7 leader though) and runner well, you can go all teh way to the Hook ledge with a 60M rope. Great long pitch!! Then blast the hook! YEEHAW! May 23, 2005
Lee Jensen
  5.6
Lee Jensen  
  5.6
I would classify the pitch 4 chimney more as a low angle off width than a chimney. I found that if stayed out of the crack and just arm barred the slot and the west facing wall it was actually enjoyable.

We did the direct start and the movie variation. The direct start was great. Enjoyable crack with one balance move. The movie variation required a lay back under a roof which was too much for my tall frame and off I pinged. Mar 12, 2005
Lee Gitlin
  5.6
Lee Gitlin  
  5.6
Pitch #4 disqualifies this route from being a 3-star. It's an ugly squeeze chimney, with limited pro, followed by a runout (albeit easy) traverse. We did the route via Schoolroom Direct, resuming the route above belay station 1. Oct 15, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.6
Nathan Fisher  
  5.6
A nice way to mix it up: Pitch 1: Schoolroom Direct into the 2nd pitch of Schoolroom. Pitch 2: Schoolroom's 3rd pitch. Pitch 3: Recess Variation into the traverse. Pitch 4: Movie Variation.

Now that is a 3-star link-up. Oct 14, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.6
Nathan Fisher  
  5.6
I believe Vince is trying to say, "There is a 40 foot runout traverse." What I gather from this is there is a 40 foot traverse that has runout, gear can be placed but it is runout. I agree that there is a bit of runout. You place a micro-cam at the end of the squeeze, and then traverse over. Until you get a larger (#2) Camalot in the vertical crack there is nothing else and that is about 20 feet of traversing. So yes, the chance of hurting one's self on a 20 foot pendulum into that west-facing wall is possible, therefore runout is the word. Not hard, not too scary, just kind of runout. Oct 14, 2004
I'm pretty sure that the traverse from the top of the squeeze chimney to the bottom of p.5 is about forty feet! My memory could be fooling me however. And yeh, there is a place or two to put in some pro but... it's so easy that, for me at least, it wasn't worth the effort. Oct 13, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.6
I don't remember any 40 foot runout traverse.The traverse is a bit runout, but nothing longer than maybe 10-15 feet. I doubt the whole traverse is even 40 feet and I got a couple of pieces in it. Oct 12, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.6
Nathan Fisher  
  5.6
Not a classic, but a great route. I agree with the Gramm's, in that Schoolroom West is better. Lots of varied climbing on this route. Definitely a must-do. Oct 10, 2004
TobinPetty
Nampa, ID
 
TobinPetty   Nampa, ID
 
Descent can also be made (60 m rope) by rappeling from "big dead belay tree" (@ the end of the 5th pitch) directly to the schoolroom rappel (the top chains of Chicken Rodeo route). Oct 9, 2004
If u are a solid 5.6 or 5.7 leader this climb is great! Plenty of pro (except for p.4 where there is next to none). Good belays. A nice intro to multipitch climbing. Do the 5.7 direct to make it 3 stars. The "runout" is basically a two move traverse that should get you ready for the forty foot runout traverse on pitch 4. Sep 23, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.6
This route is ok, but not nearly as good as Schoolroom West. Definitely do the direct start(which really isn't R in my opinion), and finish it via the Movei Variation for more fun. Running some pitches together keeps things moving - you could probably link the first three if you do the direct start and can easily do the first two that way. Mar 20, 2004
That's right. The Schoolroom Direct Variation is rated 5.7R in Ruckman's book. (The traverse from the top of the crack over to the first Schoolroom belay is runout) I haven't done it, but I've seen people combine this pitch with the 2nd pitch of Schoolroom and it seems to work quite well. Dec 12, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Did this one last spring break with my then girlfriend. One of my first multipitch trad climbs. Did the whole thing with a set of stoppers, thats it. Sketchy in some spots with that limited pro, especially on the slabby 4th pitch, but not too bad none the less. I think we did a variation called Schoolroom Direct (as I've seen it listed in some guide books). This variation goes directly up the crack on the lower right of the picture above, putting you right in line for the second. This avoids the long needless traverse. A much better start to a great climb in my opinion. Dec 7, 2003
John, thanks for your comments. Since I'm still a trad-climbing beginner, I appreciated the variety of the pitches, even that nasty fourth-pitch chimney. The short pitches were nice because my partner and I could actually communicate with each other (except for the final pitch). So for those reasons I'd still give it 3 stars and do it again. It did seem like it took forever to go not very far because of all the belay swapping. I've heard Schoolroom West is very fun and am anxious to try that one. Nov 4, 2003
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
In my mind, a three star route is something that screams to visiting climbers, "Come climb me!" I wouldn't recommend this route as a highlight of Wasatch climbing. In my humble opinion this route's pitches are too short in the sense that you never really feel like you get into a flow, and in the end, while it is worthwhile and has some cool moves, it felt more like a pain in the ass (climbing 40 feet setting up an anchor, another 40 feet set up an anchor, etc.) Nov 3, 2003