PRINT: Rock Climbing in Schoolroom Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Schoolroom Area

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!

Getting There

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 5 ● The Scourge Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● Chicken Rodeo Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Lizzie Borden Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 18 ● The Rumba Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 220 ● Hatchet Crack Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R 3 ● Primal Scream Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 2 ● Cornerstone Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 232 ● Schoolroom West Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 57 ● Mantel Variation Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R 3 ● Schoolroom Streak Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 2 ● Rising Sun Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 471 ● Schoolroom Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 28 ● Playing Hooky Var. Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 248 ● Schoolroom Direct Variation Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 134 ● Movie Variation Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 16 ● Recess Variation Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 20 ● Schoolroom Roof Trad, Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Schoolroom Chimney Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 28 ● Knobs to Gumbyland Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Knobcheese Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 3 ● State of Confusion Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 26 ● Gumbyland Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 190 ● The Hook Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 30 ● The Hook Direct Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 74 ● The Hook Variation Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 12 ● Great Ripoff, The Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 52 ● Mind Blow Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Talus Food Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 664 ● Bushwhack Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 14 ● Angling Angels Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 39 ● The Bungle Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 2 ● Chicken Little Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 378 ● Callitwhatyouplease Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 5 ● Heaven's Gate Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R 9 ● Stone the Crows Sport

● The Scourge

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR

● Chicken Rodeo

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR

● Lizzie Borden

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● The Rumba

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Hatchet Crack

220

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Primal Scream

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Sport, TR

● Cornerstone

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR

● Schoolroom West

232

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches

● Mantel Variation

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● Schoolroom Streak

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad 2 pitches

● Rising Sun

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad

● Schoolroom

471

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches

● Playing Hooky Var.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Schoolroom Direct Variation

248

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad

● Movie Variation

134

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Recess Variation

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad

● Schoolroom Roof

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 Trad, Aid

● Schoolroom Chimney

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Knobs to Gumbyland

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport

● Knobcheese

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● State of Confusion

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

● Gumbyland

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● The Hook

190

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches

● The Hook Direct

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR

● The Hook Variation

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● Great Ripoff, The

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR

● Mind Blow

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad

● Talus Food

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR

● Bushwhack Crack

664

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

● Angling Angels

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad

● The Bungle

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad

● Chicken Little

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● Callitwhatyouplease

378

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Heaven's Gate

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Stone the Crows

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The best photo I could get of the rappels. Open in new tab for full quality

School Room area from across the road.

Hatchet Crack<br>
Both schoolroom rapels can be done with a 60m

Hatchet Crack Both schoolroom rapels can be done with a 60m

Schoolroom area

Mountain goat atop Schoolroom Area, be wary!

This is the schoolroom rappel at the top of Hatchet Crack. Someone had removed the steel cable/webbing that's always been here. We replaced it with some cord but that won't last long. I'm not su…

Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard Schoolroom rappel. This chimney is located a short scramble to the west from the top of the Schoolroom route.

Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimney for the down climb to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Aforementioned tree is below the climber.

Schoolroom from the parking lot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT

Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself. Jun 13, 2009

Michael Buchanan

Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area. Aug 8, 2009

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah

Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.

Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).

I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney. Nov 4, 2009

KameronM

I found a single La Sportiva climbing shoe in Little Cottonwood Canyon near the approach to the school room area(area with Bushwack Crack and Green Adjective), on Sunday April 19th. Shoot me a text with the size and the model/make of the shoe and we'll figure out how to get it back to you.

- Kameron 801-618-5554 Apr 19, 2015

Kerrie Neal 1

LOST GEAR - REWARD OFFERED IF RETRIEVED
An unfortunate series of events led to the loss of a 70m camouflage rope
If retrieved please call/text 443-535-3524 Jun 10, 2016

Kimber Rust
Irving, TX

Lost GOPRO - free cam offered for the discovery and return of a silver GoPro Hero 4 in protective case. 469-569-1474 Sep 6, 2016