Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Pat Contor and Gary Taylor, 1988
Page Views: 6,696 total · 52/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Killer edge climbing with closely spaced bolts above a roof. Turn the corner and pull onto a red, crystalline slab for 3 bolts. Then a little gear in an easy crack and three more bolts up a perfect slab to the anchors of El Guapo.

Location

Starts on the middle tier about 60 feet above the gear belay for Snowflakes/Plasma.

Protection

bolts and on for two pieces in the finger size. a few long slings to reduce rope drag. You won't be able to hear each other at all so work it out beforehand. We had a 70m rope and just made it to that upper anchor. Two raps to the ground.

Photos

4 5/16' buttonheads replaced this weekend, with 1/2" ss rawls.
I left the first bolt that was a rawl 5 piece with a good hanger.
The upper half was done years ago, so now all but one bolt is stamped asca.

Big thanks to Alexi for helping out.

This is a super sweet route.
Try it out.


Pics? May 16, 2010
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Woot Monkey! Jan 14, 2011
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
How runout/scary is the slab after turning the corner? Sep 8, 2014
Ryan Arnold
  5.10d
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10d
It's hard 10d slab climbing with 4-6 feet between bolts, followed by 5.9+ slab with 10-15 foot runouts. Long 65m pitch.... plan to not hear each other at the belays. Sep 8, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Surprised it took me so long to climb this, and even more surprised to discover it's among the canyons finest routes! Aug 25, 2016
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I followed this route and fell at the crux. With rope stretch I was left dangling in space. My partner was too far away to yell for her to lower me. I had to ascend the rope (I had a tibloc and prussik) and try again. Got it next try. My point is this: make sure your follower is competent and knows what to do. Apr 17, 2018
Danie White
SLC, UT
 
Danie White   SLC, UT
 
In a pinch, you might try the modern method of calling your partner by cell phone from the anchor. Not a substitute for know-how or a plan, but it was handy for us when the rain storm unleashed. Oct 24, 2018