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The Flakes
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 132
votes
Routes in East Gate Buttress
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Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B-Positive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Babies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bald Headed Beer Drinkers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blooddrive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Camino Torcido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Graying at the Routes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oye Cómo Va T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ripping Wall, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route Left of Snowflakes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Skilled Passage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Stradler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Ramp, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | D. Turville & L. Wheeler, early '70s FFA: M. Ward & R. Wright |
| Page Views: | 10,794 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Sep 26, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
My all-time favorite at the grade in Little Cottonwood, this route can be "Quite a grunt to get to and tricky to find," according to the Ruckman guide, but it's well worth it. Approach via Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture--traverse east 25ft from the bolted anchor atop the third pitch of Tingey's Torture--for a fun, long link-up or bushwhack your way up ledges to the base of To Air Is Human (.10d) or Under Fire (.10), granting access to the low-angle, splitter first pitch (5.6), which is named Trivial Pursuit (FA" Pete Carney, Tim Wolfe) in the 2016 edition of "A Granite Guide." The second pitch, however, is THE pitch... Scramble up the easy ramp to the base. Jam the perfect handcrack. Commit to a wild undercling/lieback out the first flake left to a stance in a squeeze, then again back right along the top of the airy second flake--CLASSIC! Two sets of bolted anchors appear above; use the newer, upper anchor to belay/descend.
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