All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Pawn Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Pawn

L › R R › L A › Z

	Direct South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
	Earth, Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Easy Snow R
	En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hollow Flakes, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 PG13
	Kuiper Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Path of the Argonian T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Rook, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wheeler Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13
	Zugzwang T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

GPS:	40.5807, -111.75203 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Tea on Mar 27, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The buttress way up on the north ridge of LCC

Getting There

Start at the same trail as for the Black Peeler at the Power Plant. Follow the trail east past the South facing slabs of the Black Peeler, passing the Western Grebe area. Hike up, then trending west again to the East Gate gully. Ascend this loose section to some fixed ropes on the right edge of the gully just right of and below a big chockstone. At the top of the ropes, traverse west again to where a good climbers trail winds up through through Oak and Pines for a while to where a final short traverse West leads to the cliffs. From here, hike down to the base of the slab routes or up if you want to access the Direct North Face/ Wheeler Dihedral area. The elevation is about 8,200'.

Way, way up there.