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Routes in The Pawn

Earth , Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 R
En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Argonian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Description

The buttress way up on the north ridge of LCC
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Way, way waaaay up there.

3 Total Climbs

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Location: The Pawn Change
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bsmoot  
"After pitch 3 the rock quality deteriorates until it is total kitty litter."

It's not that bad. Pitches 4-6 still have good rock and you can go down after the next pitch. If you keep going up pitches 8-10, there are sections of gritty/rotten rock but for me the setting is so spectacular, that you don't notice it too much. There are some extra long bolts to protect you along the exposed knife edge section. The views are outstanding. Jun 1, 2017
R Connors
Salt Lake City, UT
R Connors   Salt Lake City, UT
Climbed En Passant on 10/17/2017. The approach climbs about 2,200 ft over 1.5 miles and took us 1:40 to reach the base of the Pawn. Parts of the gully are steep, loose, and not enjoyable. But after reaching the top of the Gate Buttress, I was surprised how pleasant the hike through the forest was. Thanks to those that built the trail! Oct 17, 2017
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
Stan, I climbed "En Passant" yesterday. The first 3 pitches are great on really nice rock. They are well protected, with close bolting or solid pins/good gear wherever the climbing is 5.9. After pitch 3 the rock quality deteriorates until it is total kitty litter. May 30, 2017
They're highly worthy and not overly "spicy". YMMV Sep 19, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Anyone done either of the 3 star 5.9 Smoot routes in the new guide? Curious how spicy they are? Sep 19, 2016
zoso  
The trail up there is great if you're in the mood for a hike. Mar 13, 2016
bsmoot  
There's info coming out in the new guide. I've been there a bit. It's a 1 1/2 to 2 hour hike, but the views are worth it.

Approach: Start at the same trail as for the Black Peeler at the Power Plant. Follow the trail east past the South facing slabs of the Black Peeler. Hike up, then trending west again to the East Gate gully. Ascend this loose section to some fixed ropes on the right edge of the gully. At the top of the ropes, traverse west again to where a good climbers trail winds up through through Oak and Pines to where a final short traverse West leads to the cliffs. From here, hike down to the base of the slab routes or up if you want to access the Direct North Face/ Wheeler Dihedral area. Mar 12, 2016
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Hey, anyone been up there in the last few years? New routes? Beta on old routes? Mar 8, 2016

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