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Direct South Face
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British C1
Avg: 3.2 from 12
votes
Routes in The Pawn
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Direct South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Earth, Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Easy Snow R |
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En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hollow Flakes, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Kuiper Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Path of the Argonian T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rook, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wheeler Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Zugzwang T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Glen Henshaw, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 2,228 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | kalockwood on May 7, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1: Start at the base of the Pawn on the right side and work your way up a crack system to a bolted anchor on a ledge. The first pitch can be identified by a slanting 3" crack (5.8)
P2: Climb a groove/corner with gritty rock for about 50 m to a 2-bolt belay on the right side of the gully right before the angle eases off. Part way through the pitch tension over to the crack system that goes left. (5.9+)
P3: Continue up the low-angle gully for 20m to another 2-bolt belay on the left side next to a rotten crack, below a short bolt ladder. (5.4)
P4: Climb the short bolt ladder and then move left along a wild hand traverse. Placing gear when possible (#4 useful). Do an awkward mantle on to the top of the 'Arrow Head' to another bolted anchor. (5.9)
P5: Mantle off the anchor onto some chicken heads and climb up the slab with great edges, clipping bolts along the way. Aid through the two roofs to access the final slab to the summit. Bring a single rack to #4. A #5 could be useful below one of the roofs. 18 or 19 bolts. (5.9 C1).
P6: Short scramble to the summit (5.4).
Descend here or continue to the top via the Upper Ridge.
Descent:
Short rap from the summit to the top of P5.
Double rope rap from top of P5 to P4.
Double rope rap from P4 to P2.
Double rope rap to ground.
P2: Climb a groove/corner with gritty rock for about 50 m to a 2-bolt belay on the right side of the gully right before the angle eases off. Part way through the pitch tension over to the crack system that goes left. (5.9+)
P3: Continue up the low-angle gully for 20m to another 2-bolt belay on the left side next to a rotten crack, below a short bolt ladder. (5.4)
P4: Climb the short bolt ladder and then move left along a wild hand traverse. Placing gear when possible (#4 useful). Do an awkward mantle on to the top of the 'Arrow Head' to another bolted anchor. (5.9)
P5: Mantle off the anchor onto some chicken heads and climb up the slab with great edges, clipping bolts along the way. Aid through the two roofs to access the final slab to the summit. Bring a single rack to #4. A #5 could be useful below one of the roofs. 18 or 19 bolts. (5.9 C1).
P6: Short scramble to the summit (5.4).
Descend here or continue to the top via the Upper Ridge.
Descent:
Short rap from the summit to the top of P5.
Double rope rap from top of P5 to P4.
Double rope rap from P4 to P2.
Double rope rap to ground.
Photos
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