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The Hollow Flakes
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British C1 PG13
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in The Pawn
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Direct South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Earth, Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Easy Snow R |
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En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hollow Flakes, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Kuiper Belt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Path of the Argonian T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rook, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wheeler Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Zugzwang T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.5807, -111.75203 |
| FA: | Brian & Jonathan Smoot, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 881 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 10, 2019 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Start at the lower left end of the buttress below a rightward slanting diagonal crack/ flake system. Follow these for a short pitch to a bolted belay beneath a detached flake called "The Chop" . (5.8)
Pitch 2: Move carefully past this dangerous flake to a short bolt ladder. A steep right facing corner leads up to a thin flake that curves up and right. Just as the flake leans right, look left for a bolt out on the face. Traverse left on chickenheads and nobs to a belay on the other side of the flake...great rock. (5.10a C1)
Pitch 3: Traverse left along a remarkable hollow flake. When the flake gets too wide to protect, move left again to a bolt out on the face. Face climb past an amazing dike on impeccable rock to the top of the flake and 2 old rap bolts. Continue up the low angle face past 2 more bolts to yet another flake. Belay at its top. (5.9)
Pitch 4: Move left and follow and easy corner / flake to the top. Down climb a bit to a belay tree. (5.6)
Descent: Rap and down climb the gully to the West using two 60M ropes. The first rap goes to bolts on the west side of the gully. The second rap goes to bolts on the east side of the gully. If you have only one rope, it's possible to hike/scramble off to the East or it's also possible to rap with one rope, but one of the stations may require your own gear.
Location
This route is located on the Gold Rush Wall, which is a clean looking buttress a bit lower than and west of the Pawn. When viewed from the East, you will see a eyecatching hollow flake.
From the bottom of the Pawn slabs, follow a trail west and down to the base of the route....about 5 minutes. At the left of the base you will notice an overhanging hand crack...(Arman'Cramer Dihedral). Start right of this.
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