Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot in 2012
Page Views: 2,372 total · 52/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1- Climb the low angled slab to a bulge. Belay just above this on a hidden ledge.
P2- Move up and right past a bulge to a hand crack formed by a flake. Move left at it's top to the fine mottled slab above, the creme brulee. Belay at a tree just up and right of the last bolt
P3-Traverse right past a roof. Slab up an arete to the highest bolt. Leap east across a crevasse like chimney to a small belay ledge! You can also down climb this if the "leapin lizards" jump seems too epic.
P4- Slab climb up and right, past bolts and chickenheads to the summit of Reptile Ridge.

Descend by rapping 35 off the North side. Hike/scrabmle 200' East along the exposed ridge to the top of the "Backside Route", and the end of the ridge. Rap from bolts 95' to The east. Scramble down and hike to the pass. Descend gully down the West side of the Pawn slabs. Descent is also described on the topo, only one 60M rope needed to get down.

Location

This route is located on Reptile Ridge, West Pawn area. From the lowest slabs of the Pawn, traverse west and down a bit following a trail to the Goldrush wall. Do not head up the first gully you come to. This is the descent gully. Continue past this to where you can see Reptile ridge and sections of the route (the creme brulee). Continue further west to a cairn marking a smaller gully. Scramble up this (a little bushwacking) first up the right side and then moving left to the upper left side of the gully. A fixed rope or two can be found here. several hundred feet higher is the start...a low angle slab. The approach takes about 30 minutes past the base of the Pawn. Although it's a long hike, you only need one rope and a light rack, since much of the route is bolted.

Protection

Singles from .5 to 2" cams (3" cam optional) plus slings for tying off chickenheads

Photos