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Routes in The Pawn

Direct South Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Earth , Wind and Fire Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Easy Snow R
En Passant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Path of the Argonian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot in 2012
Page Views: 429 total · 64/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

P1- Climb the low angled slab to a bulge. Belay just above this on a hidden ledge.
P2- Move up and right past a bulge to a hand crack formed by a flake. Move left at it's top to the fine mottled slab above, the creme brulee. Belay at a tree just up and right of the last bolt
P3-Traverse right past a roof. Slab up an arete to the highest bolt. Leap east across a crevasse like chimney to a small belay ledge! You can also down climb this if the "leapin lizards" jump seems too epic.
P4- Slab climb up and right, past bolts and chickenheads to the summit of Reptile Ridge.

Descend by rapping 35 off the North side. Hike/scrabmle 200' East along the exposed ridge to the top of the "Backside Route", and the end of the ridge. Rap from bolts 95' to The east. Scramble down and hike to the pass. Descend gully down the West side of the Pawn slabs. Descent is also described on the topo, only one 60M rope needed to get down.

Location [Edit]

This route is located on Reptile Ridge, West Pawn area. From the lowest slabs of the Pawn, traverse west to the Goldrush wall. Continue past this and it's descent gully to where you can see Reptile ridge and sections of the route (the creme brulee). Continue further west to a cairn marking a smaller gully. scramble up this (a little bushwacking) angeling left to the upper left side of the gully. A fixed rope can be found here. several hundred feet higher is the start...a low angle slab. The approach takes about 30-40 minutes past the base of the Pawn. Although it's a long hike, you only need one rope and a light rack, since much of the route is bolted.

Protection [Edit]

Singles from .5 to 2" cams (3" cam optional) plus slings for tying off chickenheads

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A couple notes:

On anchors - the pitch 2 anchors are off to the right at the end of the pitch. There is another set off to the left that you will probably see first, but don't go there. This is clearly shown in the supplied topo but we didn't check that before doing the pitch. It is easy enough to traverse between anchors, however.

On the descent - doing this in January there was a decent amount of snow on top of the route and down the backside. We opted to leave behind some cord and locking biners for 3 rappels with a 70 down the face angling skiers left until we were able to reach a gully we could scramble back down (class 3 with a spot or two of 4), putting us close to the base of the gold rush wall routes.

On pro - take lots of extendable slings.

Overall - fun route! All 4 pitches are good but, as you'd expect that high up, the rock is really granular and somewhat sugary, which adds a little zest to the few crux moves (start of p2, first 3 bolts on p3). Jan 17, 2018
Drop your packs at the base of the Pawn near low angle slabs. You will descend via the large gully immediately west of the pawn.

It's pretty much bolted. You can get away with 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and no nuts if you are solid. Lots of draws and slings. May 4, 2018

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