Avg: 3.3 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Brian & Jonathan Smoot in 2012|
|Page Views:||2,372 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P2- Move up and right past a bulge to a hand crack formed by a flake. Move left at it's top to the fine mottled slab above, the creme brulee. Belay at a tree just up and right of the last bolt
P3-Traverse right past a roof. Slab up an arete to the highest bolt. Leap east across a crevasse like chimney to a small belay ledge! You can also down climb this if the "leapin lizards" jump seems too epic.
P4- Slab climb up and right, past bolts and chickenheads to the summit of Reptile Ridge.
Descend by rapping 35 off the North side. Hike/scrabmle 200' East along the exposed ridge to the top of the "Backside Route", and the end of the ridge. Rap from bolts 95' to The east. Scramble down and hike to the pass. Descend gully down the West side of the Pawn slabs. Descent is also described on the topo, only one 60M rope needed to get down.