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Routes in Super Slab

Fallen Goat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goat Heaven T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heart of Darkness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Open Heart T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Slippery Slab T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippery Slope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Super Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Slab Ice T WI2
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Super Slab is the large, prominent low angle slab you see on the right side of LCC as you enter the canyon. The lower slabs have beautiful water polished granite while the upper slab offers great views.

Here’s a bit of history on Super Slab: Harold Goodro first climbed there in the late 1930’s. In 1961, Layton Kor & Fred Becky climbed there next, shortly followed by Ted Wilson and others. George Lowe and Dave George made the first winter ascent in the 60's.

My first climbing on Super Slab was in 1976, where my brother Jonathan and I followed some of the natural crack systems and a few slab sections. In the 80’s and beyond, SS rarely got visited as new areas and rap bolted routes took off. In 2005, with encouragement from Ted, we decided to climb the blank areas using traditional, bolt protected, ground up technique. We have no way of knowing if these lines have ever been climbed before or not, but it seems unlikely since they stray away from crack systems and any belay spots. Most of the climbing is very easy, which may bore some climbers. Moderate climbing and setting may attract others. The pure friction on the lower slabs can feel quite different from day to day as the temperature and humidity varies. The season is amazingly short, unless you don’t mind climbing in the heat. Summertime provides little, if any shade. Superslab drains a lot of water during spring time and after a rain. Spring and Fall are best. When the river is flowing, a longer approach is necessary. For ice climbers, Avalanche danger is a real concern in winter.

There are some exciting overhanging hand cracks on the right side of the slab. Rockfall is an issue as climbers and Mountain Goats knock stuff off. Most of the gear needed is a small rack consisting of mostly small cams and TCU’s. Almost all of the bolts are stainless steel, thanks to Jonathan. All routes are set up for 2 rope raps (60m).

B Smoot

Getting There

The narrative:

Start at the Temple Quarry trail at the mouth of the canyon. Walk east for a few minutes to an old abandoned cement building. Cross the river here and follow a trail eastward for about 3 minutes. Cross a deep, narrow streambed. 30' past here a small cairn marks an abrupt switchback heading back west and then uphill. Follow the trail for 5 minutes to a small gully. The trail basically ascends this gully to Super Slab. A steep section is climbed via a short fixed rope/aider. Thanks go to Jonathan for doing most of the trail work.

In Springtime, when the river is flowing, one must cross the stream at the bridge entering the Quarry parking area. A 10-15 minute bushwhack is required to get back to the trail.

B Smoot

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Super Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Super Slab Ice
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fallen Goat
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Crack
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Slippery Slope
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Slab Ice
WI2 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Fallen Goat
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Super Crack
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Slippery Slope
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Super Slab »

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glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
Route descriptions and more awesome history would be greatly appreciated.

Eventhough moslty moderate, I have scared myself plenty on your worthy routes...par for slab I figure. And I too think this place is rad! Really pretty, great position, great views, lots and lots of rock...

If it wasn't for you and brother smoots work, effort, and vision...we'd be going with what the Ruckman's left us...and that didn't really make Super Slab sound all that good...

cheers! Oct 16, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great job combining the contributions into one area Perin. Thanks! Oct 16, 2007
Agreed...Perin was great to work with. Oct 16, 2007
Thanks to everyone for working this out. Especially Perin for dealing with us. Oct 16, 2007
I hiked up to Super Slab for the first time yesterday (rain cancelled any climbing, and made for some slick approach conditions). I've climbed in LCC for 28 years, and never took the time to even take a look. This is definitely an overlooked jewel! The approach is clean, if a bit steep, but thanks to the crew who put the effort into this approach, it's no issue! For perspective, the base of Super Slab is at about the same elevation as the base of the Coffin itself, and I'd consider this a MUCH better approach. Also, the route photos are great, with high enough resolution to be able to zoom in and see excellent detail. I'm looking forward to climbing the routes! Oct 17, 2007
West Jordan, Utah
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
Cool area with lots of potential. We got a little lost once or twice, but it wasn't to hard to find. You'll find the trail just up stream from the old cement building. Once on the trail, follow it until you make it to the bridge made of 2x4's. No long after you cross the bridge you will come upon a fork in the trail, take a right. The trail will look like it is going to fork again (this is where we got lost). You take another right, which takes you directly into the stream bed, where the spring runoff comes down. You don't stay in it long, look for the trial to continue on the other side. The trail continues to go left for what seemed to be forever before it turned and went up toward the slab. Eventually you will follow another stream bed carved by runoff most of the rest of the way. There are a few cairns along the way. There are a few places that you will weave off and onto the stream bed making your approach easier. Eventually you will need to go left (I'm kicking myself for not taking a picture of this) and you will find a rope which is anchored to 2 bushes. It will help you get up the tiny slab where the trail continues to the base of 'Fallen Goat'. Be careful from this point reaching your route it is a rather steep approach. Oct 10, 2010
I'm curious what you mean by 'lots of potential'? Oct 10, 2010
West Jordan, Utah
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
By potential I meant, it's a big slab and there were plenty of unclaimed FA's from what I could see. There were no documented routes between Forgotten Slab and Super Slab, but plenty of good lines even for single pitch routes. Unless they're just not on MP yet. Props to all those who have already put in hard work developing what is there. It's more than I've ever done, it wasn't meant belittle anything that is already there. Oct 10, 2010
I get that. Its just that when you see acres of untouched rock that doesn't necessarily mean room for more routes. When I went, I was impressed that the Smoots had done the lines on the major features that could/should be drilled on lead. One of the big fears for an area like this is that because its lower angle people might grid bolt it or squeeze things. That definitely hasn't happened yet and I hope it stays that way. Oct 11, 2010

If you follow the "spring time/high-water" approach, be aware that it will likely take you approximately 1+ hour to bushwack from the bridge up to the bottom of the superslab (not 10 to 15 minutes).

I should add, the bridge referring to the one that the road for the cars crosses. There used to be(?) a bridge off of the Temple Quarry footpath which was washed out and no longer exists?!!

Regardless, I could not recommend getting there except for crossing the stream in low-water. Jun 11, 2011
Jim D  
This thing is in the sun by 7 am in August. Start early or suffer.

Approach Info:

In August the water is plenty low to cross.

Total Approach Time is 20-25 minutes.

Park at Temple Quarry Trail near mouth of canyon. Look up Little Cottonwood Trail for 200 meters and you'll see a concrete building. Go just past it, then follow a trail South down to the creek. Cross the creek on rocks, then take a trail that goes East (currently pretty overgrown, but easily followed-I'll take a weedwhacker next time I go). If you haven't crossed the creek within 5 minutes of leaving the parking lot, you've gone too far.

The trail continues East and crosses a ravine on a narrow bridge (Thanks to whoever built that). 30 feet after crossing it take a right. 30 seconds later take another right on a faint trail that goes back into the ravine. The trail then goes West much further than you think it should before it drops you into the runoff gully you'll follow up to the slab. When you get cliffed out, step left and 3rd class past a fixed rope and you'll be at the base of Fallen Goat. You don't really need the rope to get up, but it is nice to have when you come down. Aug 12, 2011

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