Super Slab Rock Climbing

Super Slab is the large, prominent low angle slab you see on the right side of LCC as you enter the canyon. The lower slabs have beautiful water polished granite while the upper slab offers great views.

Here’s a bit of history on Super Slab: Harold Goodro first climbed there in the late 1930’s. In 1961, Layton Kor & Fred Becky climbed there next, shortly followed by Ted Wilson and others. George Lowe and Dave George made the first winter ascent in the 60's.

My first climbing on Super Slab was in 1976, where my brother Jonathan and I followed some of the natural crack systems and a few slab sections. In the 80’s and beyond, SS rarely got visited as new areas and rap bolted routes took off. In 2005, with encouragement from Ted, we decided to climb the blank areas using traditional, bolt protected, ground up technique. We have no way of knowing if these lines have ever been climbed before or not, but it seems unlikely since they stray away from crack systems and any belay spots. Most of the climbing is very easy, which may bore some climbers. Moderate climbing and setting may attract others. The pure friction on the lower slabs can feel quite different from day to day as the temperature and humidity varies. The season is amazingly short, unless you don’t mind climbing in the heat. Summertime provides little, if any shade. Superslab drains a lot of water during spring time and after a rain. Spring and Fall are best. By October, the slab is mostly in the shade. When the river is flowing, a longer approach is necessary. For ice climbers, Avalanche danger is a real concern in winter.

There are some exciting overhanging hand cracks on the right side of the slab. Rockfall is an issue as climbers and Mountain Goats knock stuff off. Most of the gear needed is a small rack consisting of mostly small cams and TCU’s. Almost all of the bolts are stainless steel, thanks to Jonathan. Most routes are set up for 2 rope raps (60m). You can descend with a single 70m rope from the top of Fallen Goat by doing the following: Rap that route, which includes a little brushy downclimbing (after the second rappel) to the midway ledges. From here, swing over climbers left to the Heart of Darkness route (black painted anchors). Rap from here to the ground.