Super Slab Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.568, -111.771 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||21,107 total · 126/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Oct 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Heres a bit of history on Super Slab: Harold Goodro first climbed there in the late 1930s. In 1961, Layton Kor & Fred Becky climbed there next, shortly followed by Ted Wilson and others. George Lowe and Dave George made the first winter ascent in the 60's.
My first climbing on Super Slab was in 1976, where my brother Jonathan and I followed some of the natural crack systems and a few slab sections. In the 80s and beyond, SS rarely got visited as new areas and rap bolted routes took off. In 2005, with encouragement from Ted, we decided to climb the blank areas using traditional, bolt protected, ground up technique. We have no way of knowing if these lines have ever been climbed before or not, but it seems unlikely since they stray away from crack systems and any belay spots. Most of the climbing is very easy, which may bore some climbers. Moderate climbing and setting may attract others. The pure friction on the lower slabs can feel quite different from day to day as the temperature and humidity varies. The season is amazingly short, unless you dont mind climbing in the heat. Summertime provides little, if any shade. Superslab drains a lot of water during spring time and after a rain. Spring and Fall are best. When the river is flowing, a longer approach is necessary. For ice climbers, Avalanche danger is a real concern in winter.
There are some exciting overhanging hand cracks on the right side of the slab. Rockfall is an issue as climbers and Mountain Goats knock stuff off. Most of the gear needed is a small rack consisting of mostly small cams and TCUs. Almost all of the bolts are stainless steel, thanks to Jonathan. All routes are set up for 2 rope raps (60m).
The narrative:Start at the Temple Quarry trail at the mouth of the canyon. Walk east for a few minutes to an old abandoned cement building. Cross the river here and follow a trail eastward for about 3 minutes. Cross a deep, narrow streambed. 30' past here a small cairn marks an abrupt switchback heading back west and then uphill. Follow the trail for 5 minutes to a small gully. The trail basically ascends this gully to Super Slab. A steep section is climbed via a short fixed rope/aider. Thanks go to Jonathan for doing most of the trail work.
In Springtime, when the river is flowing, one must cross the stream at the bridge entering the Quarry parking area. A 10-15 minute bushwhack is required to get back to the trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Super Slab
Days w Precip