Type: Trad, 1750 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: 2007
Page Views: 1,911 total · 14/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Start

Start 200' left/east of the giant black water streak, on the far left side of the buttress.

Route Description:

Pitch 1: (200') Climb dirty cracks and a short slab.
Pitch 2: (200') Climb a flakey slab and a right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: (200') Climb up a slab, ledge, face & intermittent cracks.
Pitch 4: (200') Climb a clean slab.
Pitch 5: (200') Climb up a dirty face & low-angle dirty slabs.
Pitch 6: (100') Climb dirty slabs.
Pitch 7: (150') Climb tree-filled cracks.
Pitch 8: (150') Climb a clean face.
Pitch 9: (150') Climb loose rock.
Pitch 10: (200') Climb more loose rock.

Protection

I recommend 8 SLCDs (0.4"-3.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24").

Descent

Scramble southwest into the gully.

History

Bolted in 2007.
Sections of the first 2 pitches may have been climbed by the Alpenbock Club in the 1960s, but there is no record of it.

Note

This may be Grade V by next year.

Photos

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bsmoot  
"This may be Grade V by next year."

Sorry to break it to you, but a grade IV or a V doesn't exist in the Super Slab area. Jan 28, 2008
LCC Climber
  5.8+ R
LCC Climber  
  5.8+ R
Brian calls a 300 foot climb (Ventral Fin) Grade IV.
Tony calls a 1,700 foot climb (Heart of Darkness) Grade III.

I'm sure some folks will be able to fire to the top of this in a few hours. But I think it will take most parties all day to make it to the ridge, which is the top of this route.

Its too bad folks were/are so mean to each other on here. If you have a problem with Tony you should talk to him in person. Sep 27, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Tony? Is that you? Sep 27, 2010
bsmoot  
"Sorry to break it to you, but a grade IV or a V doesn't exist in the Super Slab area."

Tony, I don't see how this is a "mean" statement, it's simply my opinion about a route grade. If you think folks are too mean on MP then stay away.

You saw me "in person" at the base of Super Slab on Saturday, why didn't you want to talk about it then? Was it because you were with clients?

P.S. Nice lie, I never said The Ventral Fin was 300' Sep 27, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Ventral Fin: 5.10 A2-3.
Heart of Darkness: 5.8+.

Comparing apple and oranges while speaking of y000urself in the third person: priceless. Sep 27, 2010