Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2005 |
Page Views: | 4,898 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Sep 25, 2007 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1- Climb the clean low angle slab for 160' to a bolted belay.
P2- Move right over a short, fun roof. Ascend the face above to a fixed belay below the impressive roof.
P3- Layback the 1" corner to the crack. The overhanging hand crack is Sweeeeeeet! Belay at it's top to avoid rope drag. (5.10)
P4- Move the belay up 35'
P4- A moderate pitch leads past bolts & pins to a belay at the midway ledge.(190')
P5- Ascend the ever steepening slab (great rock) past 2 bolts to a belay under a roof... 5.8
P6- friction past bolts and a pin to a belay under a roof at 3 bolts. (same belay as Goat Heaven). Rap off using 2 ropes. You can also rap east with a single 70m rope to Fallen Goat. Rap from here.
Variation: Superfingers...On pitch 2 traverse right and up to a belay beneath another overhanging crack. Crank out the overhanging fingers and hands to a belay at it's top. (5.11) Join Goat Heaven from here.
Variation: Aid Crack 15' below the overhanging Super Crack is a C1 aid crack...could go free.
Variation: Instead of climbing Super Crack (5.10) follow the fingercrack up the corner to the upper belay (5.8)
Variation: From Pitch 2, diagonal up & left on beautiful rock to a bulge with cracks. Move back right, above the roof (don't fall) past 2 bolts to the upper belay. (5.8)
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