| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.5681, -111.7706 |
| FA: | ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2005 |
| Page Views: | 5,553 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Sep 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1- Friction up the beautiful, sometimes slippery slab to a belay on a rib of rock. (5.8 or 5.9)
P2- Move left to a prominent curving jam crack. From the top of the crack, move right out onto the face to a bolt. Belay 60' higher (5.8)... great pitch.
P3- Traverse right 20' and up to a roof. climb over this (bolt here) and move up to a fixed belay.
P4- Climb over several roofs to the midway ledge. A short distance above is the fixed belay at a good ledge.
P5- Ascend the slab above, starting just left of a jagged corner. Climb past fixed pins and bolts on cool featured rock to a belay below roofs.
P6- Climb up to a fixed pin. The roofs above require some cams. Once above the roofs, move up past a bolt on the left to the final belay (may be wet).
Rap route. If using a single 70m rope, on the 2nd rap from the top, you will need to down climb 15' of easy terrain to the chains. Swing East at the 3rd rap to the black chains. Follow those the rest of the way.
Sometimes cold temps can make the slab feel more slick. It's possible that the Jam crack on pitch 2 is a section of the Beckey/Kor route
We named this route after the dead goat we found at the start of the climb.




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