All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Sail Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Sail

L › R R › L A › Z

	Apple Jelly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Flying Dutchman T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Ream Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spaceland T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wilson-Love T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	6,302 ft
GPS:	40.57463, -111.77 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,660 total · 107/month
Shared By:	Stan Pitcher on Mar 17, 2005
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Between the Coffin and The Egg but high above, the Sail offers some interesting climbs which are quite challenging for their grades.It is mostly trad with a few bolts on one of the routes. The rock is pretty good but could benefit from more traffic. Since its so high off the road it is probably the best crag for winter sun in LCC. There is a now a bolt anchor at the top of Bong Bong Firecracker and you can also walk off to the west. For Flying, Reams, and Wilson-Love its probably best to belay from the top. Castaway has an anchor with a new bolt just below the top. All the routes are worth doing. The bolt(s) on the far right are not in the book and are probably some unfinished project.

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg Buttress. Follow the switchback up towards The Egg's west gully and follow the trail up towards The Sail. The trail becomes less defined and at a point a ways below the Sail, its best to cross the gulley and scramble up the ridge taking care to find the easiest route to a point just north of the sail where a break in the ridge gives passage to the base of the routes.

Access is also gained by an arduous hike up the gully between Tick Fever and Hong Wall and there is a bit of scrambling (and heavy breathing) involved. This approach is no longer recommended and saves little to no time.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 9 ● The Brass Monkey Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 123 ● Bong Bong Firecracker Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 20 ● Ream Crack Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 50 ● Wilson-Love Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 74 ● Flying Dutchman Trad