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Elevation: 6,302 ft 1,921 m
GPS: 40.57463, -111.77
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,306 total · 104/month
Shared By: Stan Pitcher on Mar 17, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Between the Coffin and The Egg but high above, the Sail offers some interesting climbs which are quite challenging for their grades.It is mostly trad with a few bolts on one of the routes. The rock is pretty good but could benefit from more traffic. Since its so high off the road it is probably the best crag for winter sun in LCC. There is a now a bolt anchor at the top of Bong Bong Firecracker and you can also walk off to the west. For Flying, Reams, and Wilson-Love its probably best to belay from the top. Castaway has an anchor with a new bolt just below the top. All the routes are worth doing. The bolt(s) on the far right are not in the book and are probably some unfinished project.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg Buttress. Follow the switchback up towards The Egg's west gully and follow the trail up towards The Sail.  The trail becomes less defined and at a point a ways below the Sail, its best to cross the gulley and scramble up the ridge taking care to find the easiest route to a point just north of the sail where a break in the ridge gives passage to the base of the routes.

Access is also gained by an arduous hike up the gully between Tick Fever and Hong Wall and there is a bit of scrambling (and heavy breathing) involved. This approach is no longer recommended and saves little to no time.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: The Sail Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
The Brass Monkey
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 139
Bong Bong Firecracker
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Ream Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Wilson-Love
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 10
Castaway
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 84
Flying Dutchman
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Brass Monkey
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bong Bong Firecracker
 139
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ream Crack
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wilson-Love
 53
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Castaway
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Dutchman
 84
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Sail »

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