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Routes in The Sail

Bong Bong Firecracker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brass Monkey, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Castaway 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Dutchman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ream Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wilson-Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 6,302 ft
GPS: 40.575, -111.77 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,265 total · 59/month
Shared By: Stan Pitcher on Mar 17, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Between the Coffin and The Egg but high above, the Sail offers some interesting climbs which are quite challenging for their grades.It is mostly trad with a few bolts on one of the routes. The rock is pretty good but could benefit from more traffic. Since its so high off the road it is probably the best crag for winter sun in LCC. There is a now a bolt anchor at the top of Bong Bong Firecracker and you can also walk off to the west. For Flying, Reams, and Wilson-Love its probably best to belay from the top. Castaway has an anchor with a new bolt just below the top. All the routes are worth doing. The bolt(s) on the far right are not in the book and are probably some unfinished project.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg Buttress. Follow the switchback up towards The Egg's west gully and follow the trail up towards The Sail.

Access is also gained by an arduous hike up the gully between Tick Fever and Hong Wall and there is a bit of scrambling (and heavy breathing) involved. This approach is no longer recommended and saves little to no time.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ream Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Brass Monkey
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bong Bong Firecracker
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wilson-Love
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flying Dutchman
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ream Crack
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Brass Monkey
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bong Bong Firecracker
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wilson-Love
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Flying Dutchman
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Sail »

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Photos

I have done the rappel from the bolts west of the base of the Bong Eater. I did it with a single 70 meter rope ending at a stout slung bush. Rapping down from there puts you in line with a number of bolted anchors. The anchors are not in the bottom of the gully but above it to the east. They are not difficult to find. Jan 31, 2018
I just saw the questions about the rap anchor down and west of the belay areas. A few years ago, a friend and I tried cleaning the line just right of Texas Flake (mountainproject.com/route/1…) on the Keel. It was a giant junk show of loose blocks, gritty rock and general uncleanliness. You can do a series of raps from the base of the keel to the top of Texas Flake and then down but with a little down climbing. Here is what Kelly said in his description:"This route is directly below the sail, and excellent access for climbing the sail without the typical sail approach. If your heading to the sail, watch for the slung tree for your first rap point. From the tree 2 raps to the top of I'm the best guide EVAR with a 70m and a hint of rope stretch and down climbing. From Texas flake anchors take 2 ropes or plan some easy 5.4 down climbing at the end." Nov 27, 2017
Brenda Leach
Sandy, Utah
Brenda Leach   Sandy, Utah
If you're thinking of rapping down at the anchors below and to the west of the base of Bong Bong Firecracker, some climbers did so with TWO 70M ROPES. They said one 70m rope would NOT be long enough. I don't know if two 60m ropes would work. You would rap this to get to the gully below The Sail. Nov 27, 2017
As of March 2016 there is a bolted anchor at the top of bong bong firecracker. It is on the face near the top and about 5 feet to the right of the tunnel. While you can probably make it to the chains on the face you can also follow the crack to the top, walk to the right, and hook into the chains from above. Mar 12, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The slings are now gone from the top and there is now a bolted anchor at the top of Bong Bong, Firecraker. Mar 16, 2015
Mike C.
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike C.   Salt Lake City, UT
At the base of the Sail where the routes begin, there are two bolts on the far west side of the ledge up there. Any beta on this? Is it a descent route? The top of a route on the Keel? Thanks in advance. Nov 28, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
There are 3 great routes up at the sail that all LCC climbers should do. The horn still has slings on it for descending, which is convenient for all three of the routes as they all converge nearby, though it would be tons better if we could extend it out a bit more to reduce rope rubbage. From what I could see on my first venture up to the sail is after you leave the egg trail it is pretty much shwack and guess, so make sure you have a general idea of where to go before embarking. I did some 4th class moves up a tree to plant myself on some slabs that took me over there. Wear sandals or you will have 3 lbs of gravel in your shoes.

A better approach is to head up the gully inbetween the coffin and Keel, then do some 5th class climbing up and across some slabs to the base. Much more solid and fun than the horrific 45 degree beach above the egg. Jul 9, 2011
This is one of the better crags in LCC. Is it the best? We would all talk about it as much as Crescent, the Gate or Pentapitch if the approach was nearly as chill. But its not. Its a scramble up a gully with loose rock, and class 3 scrambling. The rock is gritty at the top of the routes, but that is due to lack of traffic. This crag is a time capsule. Old school grades, no bolted anchors on the popular trad routes (that is how it should stay) and a sweet views of the top of popular LCC crags. When your there, soak in the sun, and be glad your not with the crowds on the Egg or the Coffin, which you will hear but not see. Bring your hexes, stoppers and tricams and feel old school for a day. Sep 2, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Just cleaned up the rap anchor on this yesterday. Cut about 6 old slings off the top and replaced the back up to the mahogony tree. But just to be safe bring your own slings just incase. Apr 9, 2010
ZachB  
The newly built/renovated trail to the egg makes this approach even easier. Start up the trail for crescent crack buttress, then look for a trail heading off to the right just before the trail to the coffin. The trail switch-backs a few times, passes just under the hong wall, and ends up at the left side of the egg. From there it should be less than 15 minutes to the sail. Nov 19, 2009
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
The Sail gets far less traffic than it deserves!It took us only 30 minutes to get there recently, and I don't consider myself a strong hiker.

With a 60 m rope, you can rappel from a sling around a large horn at the top of Flying Dutchman.There are rings on slings now (11-20-05), but be prepared to back them up.A 60m just makes it, so make sure your rope is centered and tie the ends together to be safe. Extending this anchor with slings is a good idea if you're planning to TR Flying Dutchman. Nov 23, 2005

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