Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.

This trail reduces visual and physical impact and is strongly recommended. It is good practice and helps maintain access.This approach isn't much longer and with more traffic, parking in this area will reduce your chances of a break-in.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Egg

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied face and crack/groove climbing, with a particularly interesting (awkward) off-width (.9+) courtesy of George Lowe. Pretty much all easy to moderate climbs with a couple .10a's thrown in. Food for the odd day out. Jul 26, 2004
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
For approach - new trail leads to west side of egg and if you do the scramble up from there, you will be at base of Leggo and a few tricky (and exposed) moves from the other routes. To reach the base of most of the routes, you need to find the old trail heading right along the base of the Egg and then scramble up and left to the ledge below Variety/Groovin. Right before the belay ledge you have to climb a left trending 4th class cracky thing that leads to a small pine tree - some folks may appreciate a rope going up/down this. Oct 17, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
the egg combined with the dragon arch make one of the better crags in the canyon. Mar 19, 2013
JFM
JFM  
Ruckman guides suggest a trail @ 0.35 mi. This trail sucks but it gets you there and starts just up-canyon from the 40 MPH sign. Don't do it.

Alternate approach begins just next to a large electrical box thing at ~0.3 mi and starts with some wooden-terraced steps. Hang a right just past the next electrical box thing/pole. Follow the awesome trail from here up and trending eastward where possible to reach the switchbacks leading to the final 4th class for the left side of the Egg. Aug 5, 2014
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
Kudos to all the hard work on the trail. Much easier approach now from the park'n'ride than the old thrash up the gully. Many thanks! Dec 9, 2015